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all good, I have a couple 9mm pots and didn't want to grab the wrong thing when I take this apart and rebuild 😉

did you use log or linear? all my 3362's are buried inside functioning boxes atm and forgot which taper they use.

yeah, 2 stage is more like being reallyyyyy slow, from noon and CCW portion, on a trem bar. I don't even remember wtf I used on mine for LDR's. Be extra aware of when and where you run the 1/4in/6.35 wires, the LFO bleeds through pretty strong and I need to redo mine. How is the trimpots...

I noticed tht in the north end, 20th, was low 80's, get up on 22 and brrrrr... was down to 40 at like 5am... did some imaginary divine being look at the calendar and say "summer's done, time to turn the boiler off" ?

alirght, I have EM and mxr clones and MXR has a little more woosh and less echo and EM is closer to a funky chorus. I can't get unity on the Mistress unfortunately. I left a thread on the maker's forum and everything else checked out for readings except 1 v ref resistor even though it's pin IS...

Aye, just pointed out how he likely kept the balance. easier with 2 than 4+ I'm sure some guys were goofing off in a MS juke joint 1 night and the bassist grabbed the steel player's slide after, 'partaking of the glaucoma meds' and it stuck around 😉

Think that's why the late Mark Sandman only had 2 strings on his.. among other stuff.

I'm a roto kind of guy for strings(like brit steels for 6 string to avoid irritation from the nickel, smaller bites the fingers easier)been using 66's but I'll try some 77' on my next build.

juststrings.com at least for in NA, I prefer buying local buuuuuuuuuut when a specific set isn't on the shelf and I see stuff for half price...

I know you asked Rob but only parts and bitz I've read on setting a flanger beyond "sounds good to you" involved an O-scope.

Shame they JUST ran out of 125's LMS , I got 1 each 125 and BB coming soon. might be able to get a purp for your collo or electric lady! the rest is impeccable as always Mike. sideways bends work but think Digi also carries the shorty Alum E's besides the better sized tants, at least in 10v's...

I look forward to that, being as then I can combine the 2 in a say 1590b~ish or the out mated to 1/4in jack and the input tied to my 60watt power board... or feck, my space heater's output in a BB for that bass amp project :unsure: Damn you Rob, making these interesting toys!

lolz..I've gotten bass pedals/boards from him before, even among my book marks next to Robert's store front, currently 'out of stock' so I was wondering if the board was separate like his 1590a projects so I can grab the board and just find the rest like the twin 2399's.....

is there a board for it?

We will now hold a wake for what remained of Robert's sanity... What are you looking to try out this time?

I drop an SMD part I dig out this ancient speaker the voice coil blew out in years back, as long as it's not an IC, I usually find the bit stuck via the leads.. solid as always Mike

I bought them... fark, like a year ago, come in bags of 5 and only used 1 so far...

odd, they exist in bourns 3362 or is it that suppliers outside the states are non-existent? https://stompboxparts.com/pots/trim-pot-3362p/

I'm still trying to find why mine is quiet-ish when I use ECC81/mild gains(not to unity maxed out on all knobs) and no response from 83/ax7's 81's are psvanes, and tried both JJ's and tung sols for ax7's. I wish I could get them to working outside the box then I'd attach to a SS power board and...

that's what I thought... constant voltage out, pedal replaces normally seen knob on the rheostat/potentiometer, return voltage determines volume. other than the rotating foot pedal, should be amongst the easiest to build, IE got a housing rest is brain donor hard.