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Yeah, I always drop the r . Don't ask me why as it continuely screws my searches up. Thanks for the info, will be building another GuveRnator in the near future. I'll give these mods a go.

Here is the gut shot.

Incoming shortly.

This is my second build of the Guvenator. I had an issue with the small enclosure format so I changed that which required taking the pots off board. Now the control labels are easier to read and is laid out like a Marshall panel. I decided to do a little relicing on the enclosure, just to...

I replaced all the nF caps with box film caps. I detox'd the IC socket and worked the IC in and out several times. Now it runs noise free! Most likely it was the socket. But having the box film installed likely didn't hurt either. Thank you for the help!

I used MLCC's rather than box film caps. I also used cheap electrolytics. I have ordered a small inventory of quality component. I have already pulled those pieces out. They cheap MLCC's I used were wildly out of spec, at least the ones I've measured. Anymore I'll measure each component before...

It seems with each Tayda powdercoated enclosure there is one hole that is gummed up with excess powerdercoating. The thread pitch on these holes is M3 x .75. Naturally that is the ONE tap I am missing, but I suspect not having the one tool you need is a universal struggle. Hope this is helpful!

...it's better to cry once.

Awesome, thank you thank you!

Assembled earlier today with no issues. When engaged the delay time is very long and grainy sounding. I would guess the shortest setting would be in the 400ms - 500ms range. From there is just gets longer and grainier. There is no brightness or clarity to the repeated signal. I doubled checked...

Dropped R103 from 4.7k to 3.3k. it's perfect now. Maybe a bit too bright for my taste when it's opened up all the way, but turning it down a touch is perfect. Thanks Robert!

I understand that logic. It's a good idea. I just wanted to make sure I didn't screw something up. Thanks for the info. I'll play with R103.

When the circuit is in bypass, LED1 turns off, but LED2 stays on. I read a post where the builder didn't bother working in the bypass for LED2, so I'm curious what one has to do to get LED2 to shut off in bypass mode. Also, is there a way to make LED2 brighter and the pulses more pronounced? I...

The advantages of Fluke: 1. Production runs of the same models for decades. Large institutions such as DOD and corporations rely on these tools not changing. Training, documentation.... 2. Lifetime warranty. 3. Made in USA.

Can some explain what makes a Fluke so good? I have no idea how or why a Fluke is so well regarded.

I don't recall where I got them. I've decided to replace the MLCC's with box film caps though. I'll report back once the parts have been swapped.

I opened it up to take pics. Pushed the LDR's back, checked everything over and took measurements on the IC's. Here are my measurements on the IC's: TL074: 1 - 4.52 Output 1 2 - 4.57 Inverting Input 1 3 - 4.58 Non-Inverting Input 1 4 - 9.13 Vcc+ 5 - 4.59 Non-Inverting Input 2 6 - 4.59...

Would Toyi ZT703s oscillascope be helpful for troubleshooting pedals?

I assembled the Abyss and originally it didn't work to well. Namely not at all. So I measured voltages on the LRD's and found shit ton of variance on voltages or none at all. Plus the LED I used wasn't ideal So I bought a bag of LRD's of the correct value (which the original ones were as...

I've gone through various inexpensive DMM' over there years. Early on I actually had a analog meter! I'm sure there are some here that had no idea such a thing existed. Right along with a rotary dial phone that was hardwired to the telco. My current DMM is a Ruoshu 205A and has served my needs...