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I wonder if the solder they used is lead-free--that could mean it needs some higher temp to melt.

I haven't had that issue--usually the solder blob will melt pretty quickly. What iron are you using?

I've always been committed to boxing it when I buy the PCB, but now that I have a lot of builds, fewer ones inspire me. Maybe I should consider the boxing it only if I really want it.

If you use sockets or build on a breadboard you can just swap 'em and see which sounds best to you. For example, I found I liked the tonebender mk3 when I put the lowest gain in Q2, which is not the usual recipe. Also, I measured the gain and hfe of mine using this technique...

I heard about it in the context of PIO caps--didn't know it applied to film too but makes sense because it's similar principal (as I recall one side sheaths the other). Although in many circuits will it matter?

I've done it (more than once). just cross the wires when you connect to the main board and jacks

Yeah, my follow up question is to know if the leads are also reversed, because that's what I always go by. I've never even considered using the flat edge (although I know it's there it just doesn't occur to me to notice it).

It's not an input or an output. Think of it just as a node that connects to other nodes with the same label. It would be messy to draw the lines connecting them.

Pretty easy to put this in a stomp box enclosure so you don't have to mod an amp. That's what I would do.

i like to recommend the Mach One (Lightspeed). It's not many parts, fairly simple, and great sounding drive.

Oh no! This could be because a time traveler is altering the past.

@vigilante398 (who I assume designed this) is a frequent participant in this forum

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these screenshots are from the tubesandmore/cedist/antiqueaudiosupply site

The only one that looks close is Solid State Inc Is that who is making these transistors?

Who's logo is this? is it NTE? (doesn't look like it)

I think the ones you can get from Antique Audio Supply are modern production. I'm not 100% sure, but they don't advertise them as NOS or such. And many of them have the same logo on them. https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/transistors?filters=4215a4258 I got some and they worked fine in...

In general, you can use a non-polarized cap where the circuit calls for a polarized one--but there are often reasons not to, including size, cost and properties beyond capacitance (such as ESR, thermal stability, voltage ratings, etc.). In a fuzz circuit I wouldn't worry much about mlcc vs...

I like the yellow, but they're all good. Is a purple in the works, I think that'd be rad too.