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Ill be the odd man out… I kinda prefer them in the order they’re posted… the no-chromes first, big chromes second, little chromes third.

I have kind of found the same. Nice art, mediocre spray job, unlabeled enclosure, straight up bare aluminum… none seems to have a huge impact on resale for me. Of course I'm not in it to make money or whatever but at this point I pretty much only bother with nicer aesthetics when I KNOW its...

That’s more or less been my experience too. Most drives I feel break up nicer at 9v, but tbh for cleaner boosts a lot of the time it seems like 18v either means it just stays WAY cleaner longer… or you just don’t have to turn the gain up quite as much lol. But not really “better” a lot of the time

Obviously it’s a subjective question, but… I see all the time pedals being advertised as “can be run at 18v for added headroom!” And that’s fine and all but in my experience it’s typically either a very subtle difference or - as described - just takes a little longer to break up or etc. So...

So I am a big fan of the EP-style preamps and the Chase Tone/Clandestine is one of my favorites. It’s more or less an always-on and so that’s played heavily into this build. I wanted to keep the entire top surface real estate open. More on that in a moment… So you’ll see all controls and I/O...

I really don’t play much at all that would ever ask for Uberschall gain and frankly doubt I would have much use for…: but I’m still so intrigued by this… 😝

Wrapped up this build a couple days ago… mostly, anyways. I got it assembled and at that moment realized I completely forgot to order some knobs. So I scrounged up some random spares and at least made them symmetrical. To be replaced eventually, but oh well. The finish is kinda crummy too. I...

It really just kind of depends in my experience. They are a lot stricter about the title than the listing details; even if the listing title gets flagged or edited or whatever* you can say whatever in the listing details and it seems like they don’t care at all. Sometimes you can can list it as...

Oh man, I am super into this. I love the stock rat and a handful of variants but at the same time often feel kind of like they’re all often missing a small something…might be the answer here. And I’m a sucker for folded enclosures like that…

I’ve only had one order with the “new” shipping rates but it was WAY faster for me. Typically the cheap option in the past would take approximately 14 days to arrive. The considerably more expensive DHL option for my last order had my stuff to me in 3 business days… (But I am also realizing...

I don’t know if they’re the same as Tayda (never got them from there, surprisingly) but I use these style jacks from LMS all the time and have had very good luck with them. one of my go-to’s to be honest

I’ve not tried the ODR-C yet (on my list) but this has largely been my experience with other pedals’ attempts to “fix” the ODR-1. I find the ODR-1 to be a bit of a one-trick pony but it does that trick very very well and most tweaks I’ve found make it a bit less of a fit for said “trick”. Some...

I use a similar tackle box type thing and hot glued the dividers in as I was having trouble with parts slipping under the divider into neighboring bins. That said I DID drop and spill it once… at which point I said, eh, resistors are cheap enough… I’m just trashing these and starting over 😂

To be fair I think General Tso is the only PedalPCB comp build I’ve done…. But that said it’s one of my favorite compressors I’ve ever played in general. Different strokes for different folks of course but I’ve not felt a need at all to bother building any others as I have a very very hard time...

I’m not particularly well-versed in fuzzes so I might be totally off-base here, but one of the first things that came to mind is the “Paper Scratcher”/EHX Ripped Speaker fuzz. I don’t know the topology or what family it’s in or whatnot (so may be the same as something already mentioned here) but...

Do you find it’s adding a bit of compression? Kind of sounds like it from the video, but then again maybe YouTube is just up to tricks. (I don’t mean that in a bad way, though!) I really like the sound either way. There’s a nice punchiness to it without being too “spiky” or abrasive.

I put this guy on the shelf and got a line 6 ex-1. Works perfect BUT I can’t stand the sweep/feel of it. Returning… Bit the bullet and bought the Shnobel lifetime string. Got it strung and working perfectly in 5 minutes. I guess that’s what I get for trying to re-string it with an old string at...

Going to interject a bit here and hopefully not hijack too much as it’s a bit on topic. My acoustic’s action was just a bit high. I wanna say factory spec is about 0.080-0.090” at the 12th fret low E (bass side) and 0.050-0.060” on the 12th fret high E (treble side). Mine measured about 0.115”...

Honestly I have had very good luck with these cheapies from Amazon, which seem to be the same as Tayda sells or more or less just the same generic DC plug that a million different Chinese manufacturers sell… Luomorgo Right Angle 5.5 x 2.1mm/0.22 x 0.08 inch DC Socket Jack Charger Power Plug...

I think you are right. Honestly I’ve strung up various EBVPS more times than I care to count but I guess that’s what I get for doing it too late at night… had it wrapped around the pot the wrong way. So I did it the right way and… the string ended up snapping. Haha. It was getting a bit worn...