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Nah, I was waiting for @fig to send me the extra bits, and if he did I was waiting for Australia Post to get around to delivering it. One or the other hasn't happened, so the board is still waiting. I have a bunch of PedalPCB boards waiting to be built too, I'm having a hard time getting...

Not specifically, but it's saying that everything gets measured at 5mA, isn't it? Here's the rest of that page, if that helps.

From the pdf manual.

I can use my mismatched 50V and 35V 47uF E-caps, so my question is moot, nevertheless I thought of checking the Kliché Mini Special Ed and sure enough the E-cap sites are all marked 25V. TL/DR: 25V minimum.

It turns out I have ONE 50V 47uF. I don't have much by way of failed builds, but a quick inspection of my e-waste bag might turn up something useful... EDIT: Looky here. Legs are a bit short but it'll work and it tests right on 47uF. It's heatwave time here in my southern hemisphere home, so...

I only have 16V 47uF E-caps, but since parts of the circuit run at 18V I'm not 100% certain that 16V is OK. I've had a look at the schematic and it seems to me that they're in the 9V section, but I'm really just guessing.

I think you're reading the orange stripe as red. Yellow violet black ORANGE brown = 470k Ohms 1%.

Nearsighted means short sighted, which means you lose focus with distance. I am nearsighted, I can see things well up close, even now that I am old, but things start getting blurry once they're more than about a foot/30 cm from my face. Less than that, probably. Farsighted means you lose focus...

I'd be interested in seeing your cabinet work, you should make a thread in the Breakroom.

Oddly enough I was thinking about fig's cardboard speaker box when I posted this thread... I could get a speaker box with a speaker in it for that price. Anyhoo, I took @swyse's advice and put up a similar post on Facebook and a couple of friends have offered to make me boxes so I might end...

That's my plan.

Don't really have the space for woodwork, plus I'm really not good at it. It'd take me a lot of practice to get close to anything usable, and I have a limited amount of time and energy. I'd rather use my time to play music, which I am doing in two bands and working on a third.

It does look like that, but it measures in the right range for 8 ohms, not 4, and all of those Webers come in both varieties.

It's an 8 incher, and it measures around 5.5 ohms so I'm calling it 8Ω, and I wrote that on the speaker which contains, as you can see, very little information. I have zero woodwork ability so I can't make a box for it. I could maybe commission a box from someone who does have those skills. But...

It is. See here.

It's been a while since I posted a build report; I've been having a break from building. This one was easy and worked first try. No issues for me. I'm a bit unhappy with running the power wires across the board, but that was the best option with the way I wanted to build it. There's no drill...

You can get them custom drilled without any art, that's what I do.

All these were posted by @Robert so they're probably accurate: PedalPCB 3-Knob (Type 1) PedalPCB 4-Knob (Type 1) PedalPCB 5-Knob (Type 1) PedalPCB 5-Knob (Type 2) PedalPCB 6-Knob (Type 1) Those* are the standard ones that Tayda does as pre-drilled, much cheaper than the custom drilled option...

Template here: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/pedalpcb-2-knob-type-1-125b-template.10154/

Of course you should buy these from PedalPCB which are much better and far more tasteful. But, in an emergency, you could do this. Plastic plectrum, trimmed with nail clippers. (I should have trimmed it closer to the pot's shape, but since I didn't need to I didn't bother.) Four dabs of...