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So, one of my buddies commissioned an octave/fuzz for his bass rig. Can anyone offer recommendations for a PedalPCB board setup that will work for this? We are not opposed to doing an all-in-one PCB for octave/fuzz, or a 2-in-1 with one board for fuzz, one for octave. I would actually prefer...

Lytt Effects is proud to present the: First Rule (of overdrives) The PCB: the Gladiator from AionFX, which is a trace of the King Tone Duellist. Overall an easy build, but I do prefer the part values on the PCB rather than the part number. I understand the why behind it though, as it’s slightly...

Ohhh, those mods sound like something I’d be interested in. Care to explain in more detail?

Nylon washers to the rescue! @andrewsrea and @DailyDovetails thank you for the tips, tricks, and advice. Thanks to your input, I was able to isolate the issue to a local component, which brought me to a solution. The washer/nut on my LED bezel was grounding, and was tight enough in the...

UPDATE: Had enclosures done over at @amplifyfun and I love how this one turned out. If you don’t get the reference, check out 1984 by George Orwell the next time you’re at the library. Or Amazon it ;) Enclosure is the Taya 125B in matte red sand texture.

Very simple, clean build here. Low component count, lots of space to work with when installing the PCB, and just a fantastic sounding circuit. If anyone is looking for a low gain, always on type of dirt, this is it. I definitely get the hype around the Greer Lightspeed now, so if you haven’t...

It also depends on your time and money, how much of it you have, and how much you want to spend, plus however much you're building. If you are bulk building and time is more important, it may behoove you look into a second party to print and drill. This can be done through Tayda, but there is a...

Update: got a quick 10 mins to patch up some connections and remove the bezels. I re-boxed everything, tightened everything down, and tested. It worked! The only thing is, I’m using black painted metal bezels in this one, so the only part that is grounded with the enclosure is the nut/washer...

Hmm, I've been giving this some more thought, and I'm wondering if the LED bezel could be the culprit. Since I can only get the circuit to short while it's mounted in the enclosure, it has to be something in the fit that is causing it. I'm using metal LED bezels, so they could certainly be...

Got it, I will give the switch leads a try like this in the near future. Unfortunately, I’m going to have to table this troubleshooting process for a bit. The malfunction can only be replicated when the board is boxed and everything is tightened down, so I know something is going on when it’s...

It’s a really cool sounding circuit. It’s the JHS Superbolt, which is basically a Runoffgroove Supreaux clone, which is basically a Supro amp-in-a-box clone. The trimmers are all on switch, three for each throw. They set the bias for the J201s, and one side is stock, while the other is the...

Thank you! I was struggling with where to place the logo, as I didn’t want anything too crazy, and honestly didn’t feel like designing anything, so just figured it would be easy to do something consistent with all the 125B builds. Appreciate it!

Big shoutout to @Robert for the name on this one. Overall this was a smooth build, and I’m loving the sounds of this thing. The Taco side of the switch definitely sounds cool, and I really like the ability to flip the gain toggle as well in Taco mode. A great PCB design as always and an easy...

This all makes sense. I will give the joints a once-over, reflow, inspect, etc. and see what happens. One thing I did notice with this pot in particular is that it sits the lowest when I attempt to box it, so it's a bit of a struggle to get the nut to catch the threads. Whatever it is, it seems...

Thank you both for the replies and advice. @andrewsrea - It's funny that you mention this, as that is exactly what happened. I started doing more troubleshooting, and I am able to pinpoint a general location of the short, or at least I think so. Here are the steps I took: - Unboxed board...

Ok, this one is giving me a run for my money. I built one of these already and it worked right out of the gate, with one minor issue on the green side where the LED would stay very dimly lit when bypassed. I got that issue resolved (somehow, not sure exactly), and moved on to building my second...

Lock washers are key, specifically, serrated tooth. This will keep the nut from backing off of the enclosure and also prevent over tightening. No need for Loctite, hot glue, plumbers tape, etc. The potentiometer lock washers available from Love My Switches will work with the Lumberg lower...

Got it, thank you sir!

Hey @MichaelW, hate to wake up an old thread, but I’m having trouble finding an answer. I’m about ready to order up and print my enclosure for this exact build, but I want to label the toggle switches for the Fat/Stock/Glass settings. My assumption is that it goes in that order from top...

Hey @Robert, thanks for this! Just want to confirm that all 6 trims are 100k for this build. The original Super 64 had a 50k pot for trim 3, so just want to make sure before ordering components. Thanks!