Search results

The way it's balled up makes me think the pad didn't get hot enough. You don't need to add more solder, just re-heat that joint for a few seconds and it should flow to the other side. Try to heat the pad and the leg at the same time.

I don't think the middle leg of your blend knob is soldered to the pad at all. Definitely re-flow that one.

Are your eq controls working at all? C8 looks like it might still have a cold joint, unless you re-soldered after taking that picture.

Power it up and use the probe to check for audio on pins 2, 3 and 6 of the CA3080.

Re-flow your DC negative connection here, and then check for continuity between this joint and the center pin of your DC jack. It seems stupid but this sounds like a ground issue to me.

Sometimes they just don't grab leads convincingly. This is mainly a problem with thin leads on cheap resistors and crusty vintage components.

I can't say I've ever bought a name brand breadboard, but the generic ones are hit-or-miss. Tayda usually has a pretty good deal on breadboarding stuff. I live in the swamp, so ESD isn't much of a concern for me, especially with cheap semis. Definitely recommended if you're handling expensive...

My first build had 5 pots and 2 toggle switches (Parthenon). I had not soldered since college, but that was the easy part for me. Getting everything to line up in the enclosure, though... definitely a learning curve there. Start with something that has minimal external hardware... 2 or 3 pots...

I don't know where you bought yours, but I've noticed that when I buy charge pumps from anywhere other than Digikey or Mouser, about 1 in 3 is bad. Maybe I just have terrible luck, but I think there are a lot of recycled chips on the market. Socket another one if you have one.

Hope it helps for this build. It's an easy mistake to make.

I haven't taken a look at the other thread yet, but I'd check any resistors that are supposed to be 1M on that board and in your parts bin. Mix-ups happen, and sometimes orders get filled wrong.

R6 is a 10k but needs to be a 1M. Looks like you made the same substitution with R1 and R33, as well.

This wire is possibly compromised, and the connection of this wire to the tip lug of the input jack looks questionable. Replace this entire wire, and be sure you get the lug on the jack hot enough for solder to flow.

I saw this yesterday and was curious... what exactly is the patented part of the original circuit? I did a patent search and found some blurry schematics and about three pages of jargon that sound like he's describing pretty much every dirt pedal out there plus a dual gang potentiometer. I...

I would try swapping this IC with a known good TL072.

I really like how snug those knockoff Lumbergs are, but the solder lugs leave a lot to be desired. Edit: Definitely agree with you about the Neutrik 1/4" jacks, though. After a few bad experiences with various no-name styles, I'm sticking to those. Well worth the extra buck or so on the cost of...

Also, there's something weird going on with R27. Unless you sacrificed a smurf to the tone gods, it looks melted to me. Possibly also a stray wire strand causing a short just to the north of R27.

Is IC1 a TL022? I cant tell if it's unmarked or if the light is just hitting it wrong.

I use mayo-hegar needle holders, but I'm probably the only one here with a few pairs of those just laying around. Much more useful than needle-nosed pliers.

I love my dark rift, it gets really wild paired with the pitch verb mode on the spatialist. I'll have to build a pitch witch and try that out.