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This one has been done for a couple of weeks. It went together fairly easily, the only real issues I experienced were the trim knobs needing some precise settings because when in the 27v mode the pedal would squeal like hell. I basically adjusted them both down until the squealing stopped...

well, the switch seems to be functioning fine... I'm at a loss right now as to why the left two controls (rate and sens) dont work when the switch is up. Unless they are not supposed to, but there is few documented builds about this pedal. One guy here had the same problem, and one other guy...

so, a bit of an update: I jumped the anode LED to the anode of the zener because I had somehow managed to bork the LED holes. Now the LED works as it should. That said, the first two knobs (Rate and Sens) do not work in the switch up position. Is there any way to determine of a toggle...

I somehow managed to mess up the led pads, have t done that in a long time.

That solved it! Thanks. I still have a weird LED issue. When the toggle is in the down position, the LED reacts like it should, pulsing on/off as the LCR reacts. But when the toggle is up, the LED doesn't work at all. I had to solder a jumper from the LCR + to the LED anode, wondering if...

Sorry, see pics.

I get bypass. When I turn it on, no knobs really do anything except the blend knob. Ihave swapped the LF398N, and get same results. I don’t see any solder bridges. The only thing I can think of at this point is the LCR0203 is faulty. I got a bag of them on Amazon, rarely buy components there but...

I swapped a NOS RCA 12AT7 in for shits and giggles. Since a 12AT7 is roughly 70% gain if a 12AX7 is 100, and (drum roll….) it behaved exactly as one would expect. Less gain, have to dail up the gain knob to about 75% to match what a 12AX7 would be at about half way. Just a report for future...

It does now. I suspect I had a stray wire causing problems, as I took it out of the housing to check for obvious solder bridges etc.. and didnt see anything. Put it back and now its "better". Still weird as hell, but better :)

I got them on EBay from China. I bought a 5 pack, happy to send you a couple..

Just finished the build, plugged in and immediately had no idea WTF was happening 😂 Still not sure if I built it right or not, it’s basically just noise that shifts a bit when knobs are twiddled. Not what I was expecting but that’s how it goes when you go in blind.

Ok, back to square one. The pedal is not exhibiting the same low output, low fuzz. I have swapped a bunch of transistors in both Q1 and Q2 and the same issue persists. When its first in line, its weak and quiet. When I put it behind a buffer w/ a touch of boost, it wakes up, but is noisy...

Assembly was a breeze, I feel the pcb is laid out very well. Despite having a bunch of components it doesn’t seem cluttered. Also helping the situation was a pre-drilled enclosure haha. I need to have this done with all of my other builds. Short of a handful of specific parts, I had all on...

None of the pot support tabs are soldered. I think the build docs state to solder for ground. I have no idea if this is the issue or not, but figured I would point it out

Haha yea, I assumed they were not a direct 1 for 1 but wasn’t having much Google luck. Tayda said sorry, offered to replace or credit. I opted for credit as I had already bought replacements from Mouser

I wrote an e-mail, but I just found out about the error. Just wondering if it's an interchangeable part or if I should source elsewhere in the meantime...Based on cursory research it doesn't look to be an interchangeable part, at least in terms of the voltage this particular pedal produces...

I dont know enough about parts interchangeability. I followed the link in the C2CE King of Nothing build docs, ordered what I thought were IRF740's and received BS170's in a baggie marked as IRF740. They look completely different. Not sure what to do at this point, other than reorder from...

I set the external bias knob to noon, then bias to -4.5-ish volts. I suspect it was a combination of clean trim, lack of bias and maybe the original Q1 transistor just not being happy with everything lol. The 308 seems to be much more "accepting" of an idiot's approach that I seem to employ...

Indeed. However the loop on the EUNA shuts the buffer off and activates whatever pedal is in it.