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Only need 2 wires. Lugs 2 and 3 are numbered on the trimmer. Make the same jumper on the pot. And inline resistor isn't a bad idea to increase usable range. Turn the trimmer to the lowest resistance between pin 1 and 2 that still passes usable audio. Measure and put a value close/just under that...

Ah. Guess I should have looked at the schem.

Wait. I'm awake now. Zeners. A 2.5 and 2.7 is going to have the same forward voltage. Only the reverse bias is different. Won't matter/make a difference when they are in antiparallel pairs because the zener portion won't clip due to the Vf of the opposite diode being lower.

Are you measuring at the same current? If not, the comparison is moot.

I solder axials topside/component side. Resistors, diodes etc

Led spacers are a nice touch. I bought 8, 9.5 and 10mm I think the 9.5 fit ppcb best https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0z0uCV

@jcpst Plot twist, it's ruining the planet. Millions have and it's in their blood. But it's sweet.on wires.

Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum

This Tip and sleeve reversed

Is the switch body contacting soldered points. Will want to isolate the pots before final assembly Are you getting guitar + squeal/oscillation or just oscillation?

Assuming bending the legs doesn't cause interaction with another pot. Or just don't mix up 16mm and 5/8 pots(or sale 5/8 pots as 16mm)

I tend to just use the SBP pots now and they're great. Not sure that I've ever ordered any real quantity from LMS aside from maybe some one offs. SBP bare enclosures are cheaper than tayda with quantity discount too.

They updated to a 2006 layout

I'll do both, depending on the board. Often just tacking the center legs then loading into the box to finish. Yep. It's just enough to skew it

Nope. The pot body was ever so slightly smaller and throws off the edge of leg to pot center distance by about a mm. I think the legs, from pot body to bend were a table less too. Almost like the whole pot was scaled down 5%. It's not a ton and workable but if you pre solder the pots on a board...

Stay away from the tayda branded pots and get the alphas. The tayda brand dimensions are ever so smaller than than the alphas and will throw off your dilling if mixed with alphas.

You'll need a 1/4 ratio in the divider Like 30k/120k If it's just for a bread board or experimenting, fine But I wouldn't deploy this in a finished project You're loosing 20% potential output current using the 15v model already. 125mA vs 100mA output. Loosing a tad bit more in the divider...

Get a TEC 3-1222

Also make sure that dual pot is insulated and not contacting the center leg of the pot above it

Different color LEDs(And even same color) have a different Vf Ohms law and such. They should have their own independent CLRs.