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Just got a new batch of GL5516 LDRs, using two different multimeters and a component tester I'm getting dark readings of: 5-6M ohms on the component tester. 3-4M ohms on one multimeter and 3-3.5M ohms on the other. The value drifts quite a bit hence the ranges. The specs say 500K. I can only...

Okay, so I'm not doing anything stupid, a GL5516 in a dark environment should measure close to 500k. I just find it very hard to imagine two different suppliers sent out the wrong LDRs, maybe there was a bad batch. I'll order some more and see what I get. The multimeter is still on and it's...

I have two bags of GL5516 LDRs bought from two different suppliers on ebay, using my multimeter and shoving the LDR in a dark drawer I'm getting a reading of about 4M ohms from one lot and 6M ohms from the other. KE-10720 LDRs seem to be beyond the measuring capability of my multimeter. Using...

I chose places after a coupling capacitors, or in the case of pin 2 of the balance pot before the coupling capacitor, these capacitors block direct current from moving from one part of the circuit to the next, but they allow your guitar signal through which is an alternating current. This means...

It's easy to pop a transistor in back to front, and you can also get some that have a different leg order, like a BC183 and a BC183L! So google a data sheet for your specific transistors and check you are putting them in the right way. Bread boards can be a pain as sometime you just don't get a...

If you push some knobs on until they bottom out you may find they are actaully making contact with the threaded section of the pot.

Regarding transistors, this thread over on FSB had me swap out my 2n5088 for 2n3904 with an hFE of 181 https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=29469&sid=c3d28ad250d8a951d0de763c60cf0e27

https://www.thetonegeek.com/single-post/2019/01/10/keeley-phat-mod-bd-2-building-john-mayers-tone

How old is your BD-2? They changed to surface mount boards some years ago which will make modding it harder.

I've not had a bad potentiometer, but if the volume is killed when the pot is all the way up it almost sounds like the wiper is not making contact with the resistant track at that final part of the rotation. Pull the potentiometer out and rotate it for maximum volume and measure the resistance...

It's a simple enough circuit, hopefully the issue will quickly become obvious. Could you please post a photo of the bread board, and have you substituted any component values?

Is this the circuit: https://www.electrosmash.com/mxr-distortion-plus-analysis

A great place to start would be here: https://www.amazon.com/Modify-Blues-Driver-Guitar-Pedal-ebook/dp/B0882TN7X4/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=wampler&qid=1621861405&s=books&sr=1-10 But isn't it best to decide what you like and don't like about a pedal before modding it. With the TS people...

Certainly remove C10, it was only used in the first 100.

Thanks, I didn't know that, for some reason I thought it was based on the Small Clone!

I have a Mooer Ensemble King, and rarely have the level much above half way. I guess I can't quite commit to a 100% 80’s sound ;)

I know it's not been released yet, but can this be easily modded to have a level control like the CE2B? I think it's just a variable resister between the effect and the input of the output half of the opamp. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb416/

I'd throw the Six String Stinger in to the arena too, but why settle on just one.... a Son of Ben with the Six String Stinger would be very nice. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/sixstringstinger/

Thanks Chuck, It was the LEDs that threw me. I hope my request for info didn't sound discourteous.

I know there is some info in another thread, but it would be helpful if this and the other 'Boneyard' editions had a bit of info to help make the decision as to which version to build. First, are there any tonal differences? I can see the the output section is been fed off the opamp not the...