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That's a battery connection. (although shouldn't it have an even number of lines?)

Maybe give the Revv pedals a go? I like the G4 a lot as far as chuggy chug chugs go. I'm also a big fan of the zvex box of metal, but afaik there aren't any DIY PCBs around for it that include the gate.

Looks like you want the primary on the left. Pin 2 is disconnected in both xformers, and you can see the corresponding cuts in the vero.

Sorry, by "voltage divider" I just meant your typical "volume knob." Per this schem: R1 becomes a 1M pot - tie lug 1 to ground, lug 2 to gate. OUTPUT goes to lug three of a 100K (or whatever) pot, lug 2 to the next stage, lug 3 to ground. (You can remove R4 if you're adding a pot).

Gotcha. With regard to the Cornish buffer and input impedance, per your original question, this DIYS thread might be useful to you? https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=129250 As an aside, one suggestion that's come up from time-to-time on other forums is in lieu of a...

I guess the first question would be - have you built the stock circuit (or one of the modded versions for Chuck D B or Lucifers Trip) and discovered that you DON'T have that consistency?

I'm not sure which schematic you're looking at, but I'm guessing that one of the caps you're referencing is the 1N between B-E? That's there to block RFI. My cursory understanding is that with bootstrapping you're sacrificing flat response (which is "ideal" in a buffer), and adding complexity...

No worries, try this?

Finally boxed. Recycled an enclosure, foot switch, LED, and jacks so I didn't even have to drill anything what a joy. Sick label maker labels because I am a genius of graphic design.

There’s a decent documentary about the last days of the original Williamsburg location of DBA that goes through a lot of the history of the space, the venue, the pedal co, etc, before the space was reno’d and became the Vice HQ. It’s called Goodnight Brooklyn and you can find it on Tubi or Prime.

Yep, click through the link and it should take you to a bigger version. Happy to post a bigger one here if that doesn’t work.

You should also be able to go to pretty much any local sign shop and get something made - they'll probably have a bunch of options that you can see in person. Your local public library may even have a maker space with a small engraver.

Oh, it's not shown on the schematic but the vero does have some basic power filtering added.

Here's a very straightforward MOSFET bass fuzz I've been messing around with on ye olde breadboard for the past week or two for the bass player in my band. SHO —>the bass half of a James tone stack—>MOSFET fuzz face The 'fuzz' adjustment comes via the SHO's crackle pot, with a heavy amount...

If it's DC offset coming from your amp or your computer interface or whatever, you can try blocking it at the source. A dead/dying preamp tube in V1, for example, can be a bummer - could be an easy fix if that's the case. Lehle make a little utility box for just this purpose, you could try...

You might start by disconnecting the LED and seeing if the pop goes away.

I have a pal who owns one - I can ask him to take some photos of the board if that's helpful?

Like, do you have an assistant who presses these things for you?

Only a lunatic wants two footswtiches on a vertical 125B.

It's so odd to me that folks are constantly trying to hunt down vintage parts, enclosures, transistors, diodes, whatever in an attempt to make replica fuzz faces or recreate any other vintage circuit; yet here is a person who for better or worse is building the same things they've always built...