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For the audio probe, you want the sound source going into the pedal as it normally would. So, use an adaptor and play music off of your phone, or use a looper pedal and get a loop going, or anything really. You just want sound/voltage at a reasonable input level entering the pedal at the input...

@Robert how similar are the Creepy Fingers Regulus and the Basic Audio Mutant?

1590BB in landscape is a nice size for two footswitches imo. Anything smaller than that is a nightmare for anything other than home use.

If it sounds good and you just want it to be louder, you could just tack one of these onto the end and tuck it in the enclosure. Replace the gain pot w a trimmer. Have you been able to a/b it with an original?

[EDIT: Updated schematic below] This sounds pretty cool on the breadboard.

There's a pleasing symmetry between vertical stripes in the design and the molding on the first ones. But they're all fine choices and I also tend to really like the look of different sized knobs for different functions.

I bought a bag of LND150 depletion-MOSFETs a while ago and have been entertaining myself by figuring out ways to use them. In case anyone needs an extremely low parts count boost, here's a SHO variant that takes advantage of the LND150s low input capacitance and internal ESD protection to drop 3...

From what I remember of this, there's some emphasis from the .ru and .de high gain contingent on matching the curve characteristics of the diode to the FET for a "true" tube emulation. There are a couple of extremely long threads on FSB about it.

fwiw here's a link to the Kempf article (in russian): http://www.sugardas.lt/~igoramps/article68/article.htm

I assume different diodes will also have an effect on the FET bias, output, etc, so probably best to socket and see? You may not even notice any real difference with them omitted altogether.

My understanding is that particular gain stage is a circuit snippet that was popularized by an AMT preamp. You see it semi-often in tube-to-FET emulations. "The diode is used to emulate grid current happening on a triode when the grid voltage becomes positive." EDIT: didn't notice the similar...

There might be an eddystone that would work well for you? They often have sharper corners/more room inside/etc.

Check the drain voltages - they should be around 6.5V.

Might be out of spec JFETs in that case - what voltages are you seeing on the fet pins?

Just chiming in as a 100% ape eared person, and having swapped like 6 different op amps in a socketed rat I honestly couldn’t tell any meaningful difference between any of them. They all sounded like rats (aka great).

I am also very proud of myself for buying my crayons and coloring books at different stores like a big boy.

Also, you deserve a better DMM! A decent Klein / Uni-T / AstroAI model is like $30 and will let you test a bunch of things.

If the switch is fried it could be shorting out internally in all sorts of weird ways - might be contributing to the squeal? I don't think you'd be able to test continuity the way @music6000 described if you have the PCB attached - I don't know what wiring scheme the ppcb breakout boards use but...

Sorry, typo - I meant you might’ve cooked the 3pdt stomp switch.