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You might've cooked the pedal while soldering on the daughterboard - that could cause all sorts of problems.

You could also try reducing C3 or C4 and see if you like the results? If you find a few values that work you could fly leads off of the PCB and put a few caps on a switch.

I've been meaning to give this one a try - thanks for the review! I built the DLSMKIII and didn't love it (to be fair, I subbed different FETs) - I had thought those two were almost identical, but it looks like the Sabbra has a whole extra gain stage.

FWIW I've replaced two 3PDT switches in the past few months. One was on a pedal I built myself, and I'm pretty sure I reused it at least twice, so it was probably torched from too many heat cycles. The other was on a commercial pedal that I bought new in 2017, use regularly, and it's been...

I would gently suggest that "selling clones for a profit on reverb" and "the DIY community" are maybe not the same thing.

It's a bazz fuss variant with the JFET acting as the diode.

Based on the name, I'm guessing the Stomp 75 is the Stomp Under Foot '75 Ram's Head?

AFAIK there's no project for it, but I did some recording recently using the zvex box of metal (the production one) in a loop with a clean blend and it was an extremely pleasing bass sound. For a lighter drive, the barbershop is really good - I'm pretty sure there's a vero out there for the V2...

There are active versions of the James stack but what you're seeing above is a passive network. The signal gets attenuated by about 20dB and the "boost" is actually just bringing that part of the frequency spectrum back up toward unity. RL is the load being applied by the next part of the...

The plumbing metaphor is maybe useful here? Think of the buffer as a valve that's regulating the flow of water from one pipe to the next. You want to have control over how much water is entering pipe A and provide ample flow from pipe A to pipe B. In an ideal world you just have a straight...

Isn't that just a passive James stack? https://www.guitarscience.net/tsc/james.htm#RIN=38k&R1=100k&RB=1M&R3=10k&R4=180k&RL=1M&RT=470k&C1=470p&C2=4700p&C3=330p&C4=3300p&RB_pot=LogB&RT_pot=LogB

As a side note, if you dislike the more full-frequency sound of a "good" buffer, you could try the cornish version. It has some tone shaping built in.

I will also say that imo rats are a priori perfect and every mod makes them (at best) not-a-rat.

As far as PPCB options go, it'd be a cinch to take the normal muroidea/rat board and remove/jumper the filter; either delete the output or swap it for an internal trim; then run the output of that into the input of the tone job board. That'd give you a 3-band rat. You could probably play with...

Hold each piece with blue tack, drop a dab of solder at the joint and you're donezo. The heatshrink is overkill imo but follow your bliss.

Have you narrowed down the problem with your switcher to lack of a buffer? I think I mentioned this in the other thread, but you might save yourself some time and trouble by sticking any ol' boss between your first and second switchers and see if that solves the issue. Alternately, if you...

A common drain circuit like that should give you close-to-but-not-quite unity gain.

fwiw I'm pretty sure it's based on the colorsound 1-knob.

You might also try sending signal through the switcher and using an audio probe to see if there's a particular spot in the wiring that's causing the problem. A bad switch, a cold solder joint, etc, in the wrong place could result in some lost signal. You've also got 14+ cables involved in this...

The ppcb intelligent relay bypass has the flip-flop capacity of which ye speak. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/relaybypass/ If you have a boss pedal kicking around, try putting it in between the two switchers (ie, between either the send or return of the quarter master and the in or out of...