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I have a miniware TS80P, it's a bit cheaper than the Hakko with a much smaller footprint. Mine's been extremely reliable, it heats up quickly, I've never needed anything beyond the stock tip. But I'm not fussy about this stuff and used a $9 weller soldering pen with no heat adjustment for years...

The HMv3 is a great-sounding/bass-friendly BMP variant that you could easily build on any generic BMP PCB:

I'd suggest pulling the first pair of clipping diodes altogether. Also, I'm pretty sure increasing the values of C5 and C8 will do the opposite of what you want - the larger the cap, the more lows get clipped. Adding a parallel blend circuit would be a good move too.

You can get one of these under a bunch of different names through prime etc: https://www.vampiretools.com/shop/application/electrical/solder-sucker/ They are much much much better than the normal cheapie solder extractor, and short of a $400 heated vacuum situation, the best chance of...

Ah, gotcha - I didn't realise truetone uses the "1-spot" name for everything (I thought it was just the single wall wart). If you run the 4 boards inside this box to a single isolated supply outlet you should be fine; I don't think there's anything *inside* the box that should cause clock...

Running the four boards off of a 1-spot going to the single jack isn't any different than running four separate pedals off of a 1-spot and a daisy chain cable. The two preamps have a pretty normal amount of power filtering built in, and I can't imagine anything in there eating enough power to...

The pot would be inside the expression pedal - what you need to do is get the signal in and out of the pedal in a way that mimics the control on the original. If you wanted, you could set things up to have that control be switchable between an onboard pot and the exp pedal using a switched...

It looks like there are a couple different versions of the Kay schematic floating around, but yeah the bumble buzz / propolis seems pretty much the same (it also looks like it's very closely related to the good ol' super fuzz). ...and here's the propolis, ignoring everything before C8...

Is the kilt a boost + an expandora?

I think everything should go where you'd expect aside from the LED, which isn't on the PCB. LED+ from the board would go to the LED anode, and the LED cathode would go to SW on the breakout board (I think that's what that pin is for but someone please correct me if I'm wrong). Otherwise, ins...

I don't think it's been mentioned yet, but the fairfield barbershop is very nice.

LND150s are depletion mode mosfets so they act pretty similarly to JFETs (at least for this particular application).

https://www.electronicaudioexperiments.com/pcbs/beholder-diy-pcb

Hi all, Here's an overdrive circuit that I put together recently and have been enjoying a lot. It's pulled together from bits and pieces of Spaceman's Saturn, Fairfield's Barbershop, and a circuit from a DIYStompboxes user (Johnny Reckless) called the Moonlandr. It's very straightforward, a...

No need to apologise! It's frustrating stuff when "standards" aren't standard. Hopefully that solves the gating issue. While you're poking around in the pedal you could try to socket a few of the components and play around with values from other versions...

I've never seen a russian diode with the stripe on the cathode, though I could absolutely be wrong about that. I would guess that the pedalhacker listing is a typo.

I'm not familiar with the King Centaur (I assume it's klon centaur-adjacent?), but if it's using the diodes for clipping then it isn't going to matter if you're flipping the anode and cathode (especially if there's a pair of them). The Ge diode in a TBMKIII is helping to bias Q3, so its doing...

You might want to check it - for russian diodes, the stripe almost always marks the anode. AFAIK the ones with a single blue stripe follow this standard (stripe = anode). I'm sure there's some variation, so maybe yours is an exception? (This is also assuming the board you have in front of you...

I'm not sure if you missed this - you have a diode in backwards.

That's a russian diode, the stripe is on the anode.