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Possibly could be a bad trace (faulty connection) in the daughterboard on the 3pdt switch. Or maybe even a faulty 3pdt but that seems less likely since the LED is getting switched on. Sounds like it's powering up ok and connecting to ground to switch the LED on but not getting any sound when...

Thanks 👍 I figure whatever the average hfe is of the ones I have should probably be ok. I have a 2n1302 that's around 40-50 hfe waiting to get stuffed in 😁

Hey nice build! Are there any special hfe values for the 2n5089 and the 2n3904 in this build? Thanks

Looks great. Thanks!

How did you apply that image on the enclosure? Looks great!

When doing this mod is it possible to use a 3k-4k resistor to get the brightness I want or does the resistor have to be a higher value around 16k or more?

I'm about to use this same me-6 inductor for my MM build and was wondering about how it mounts. Just found your mod which made everything make sense. This forum has soo much valuable info 🫠 thanks!

Gonna try the probe next. Hoping it’s just the zero ohm resistor I used.

So I finished it up with the 100k volume pot and.... no sound. Lol. It passes signal in bypass and the LED turns on and off as it should. All the ICs are getting voltage. I took the pot off for now and hooked the output up the regular way just to troubleshoot and not have that be a factor. So...

I actually didn’t finish it yet. Just have the board all ready to go while waiting on some enclosures. I was thinking about doing it their way with the red/green LED but figured I’d probably only end up using one of the settings anyways. The only thing making me want to do the mod is that I know...

While building this last week I realized there is a way to get a regular LED to line up straight with this layout. I’m sure it’s been noticed but I haven’t seen it mentioned. Put the anode leg in the outside right hole and the cathode leg in the outside left hole and get it to the height...

Leaving r24 in place would just decrease the overall max volume I’m guessing?

If adding a 100k pot to the output would it be a good idea to get rid of the 100k resistor in r24 and jumper it or would leaving it be ok with the 100k pot coming after it?

Tha Hey thanks. Yeah I was referring to the P1, P2, P3 markings. I Built this one a few weeks back and haven’t been able to get it to work. I’ve built some pedals that are much more complicated and somehow I can’t get this simple circuit to work. lol. I tried the usual troubleshooting but no...

Not sure if it was mentioned but the top picture of the pcb in the Dirt Dauber build doc has pins 2 and 3 of the octave switch reversed. It shows 1st hole to pin 1. 2nd hole to pin 3 and 3rd hole to pin 2. But the wiring diagram for the octave switch in the build doc looks exactly like you’re...