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A dual arachnid with one side having 2 EPROMs to choose from. Used the vero layout found on this forum. Went together very easily, except for a bad rotary switch. Once replaced, it all worked. Sounds great! I do find that some of the knobs don’t seem to do much at all on certain patches. Some...

Yeah, I’m sure it’s the switch. Switch Pins are correctly connected to FV1 pins 16 and 17. It’s just switch itself. The center pin of the switch does not connect to pins 2 or 3. I’ll look into getting a replacement.

So I built two arachnids in one box. One works perfectly, the other has an issue. Patch positions 2 and 3 don’t work. Using a multimeter set to continuity, I found that the rotary is not connecting to itself on pins 2 or 3 when selected. Not sure why this is. Perhaps a bad switch? Is there a way...

Hey, my amazing wife, who is a wizard with Adobe Illustrator made a great decal for me!

Does anyone have a print template for the rotary switch for the arachnid. Something I can use to print a decal so there are printed numbers 1-8 around the rotary switch? Something like this that is sized correctly, but for 8 position and that would line up with the knob indicator. I hope my...

Never mind! I had a chance to play at a louder volume today and it’s perfect now. I keep the treble around 1 or 2 o clock and it sounds great. Hate to admit that it competes with my tube amps!

For clean tones, I use the treble all the way up. For more distorted tones I roll the treble back. I also reduced C20 to the same value as C3 (22uf down to 4.7uf). Curious, what does C21 and C13 do? The higher gain mode has a much better treble response. I’d almost like to have the normal gain...

That did it! Sounds great now! Thanks!

Thanks so much for all the help. You were right. That C2 to pin 2 of the switch was broken. I added a wire from pin 2 of the switch to the pad 3 of Q1 and it seemed to fix it. That should be fine, right? I don’t thinking I’m bypassing any components Sadly, even without C2, the problem still...

The Transistor voltages with an 18v supply Q1 1 = 9.2v 2 = 1.1v 3 = 0 Q2 1 = 17.89v 2 = 10.36v 3 = 8.54v Q3 1 = 10.0v 2 = 1.36v 3 = 0v Q4 1 = 17.89v 2 = 10.76v 3 = 8.53v Q5 1 = 17.89v 2 = 10.03v 3 = 8.06 Do these seem ok?

they are all SMD. They are secure. So strange. I had to run out for a bit. I’ll post some voltages later one.

Ugh, now the thing is all messed up. I don’t get it. All I did was simply remove C2. Easy job. No problem. I got more treble but now the circuit is way more distorted and the gain switch sounds wrong. I simply put C2 back. Treble went back down, but the circuit remained distorted and the gain...

So with my set up, I’m finding the Tweed Man too dark. I have the treble control up all the way as well as the internal presence trimmer and it’s just barely bright enough. What’s the best way to brighten or add more treble to this circuit?

Thanks!

I’m going to be wiring the Tweed Man to be always on. There will be no switch. I will wire the board input and output pads directly to the in and out jacks. Ground pad will go to ground, obviously. Can I ignore the SW pad on the board when not using a switch?

Any chances of this happening in the near future?

Thanks!

Hi, I’m new here. I would like to fit two multi-program FV-1 boards in one enclosure. If I placed the PCBs side by side would they fit evenly in a 1790ns enclosure? Build docs says each one independently needs a 125b, so it seems like they would. Also, any ideas as to when The Spacialist boards...