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If you want a GOOD iron, but not spring for a full on station- check out the Weller W60P temperature controlled iron. High enough power that it has FAST heat up and recovery time, but the temperature control ensures it won’t get too hot and fry heat sensitive components (the same reason why...

I did a TubeScreamer and Guv’nor in the same box. Nice combination really- the Guv’nor does the Marshall-in-a-box thing well into a clean amp, hitting it with a tubescreamer reacts pretty much how you’d expect a tubescreamer into a Marshall to react (the classic 80s glam/hard rock tone)

Niiiiice!!!! As I said on Facebook- that circuit will make the 5f2 you built SING!!

I do a mild bend. Not fully peened over that it’s hard to remove if necessary (although for resistors that cost like $0.01/ea, I’ll snip first then responder- why risk a board for something that cheap), but not just dropped in as well. I bend just enough that they don’t fall out AND are...

I’ve also had issues with the blu tak doing just this! I’ve learned to bend leads to hold, and with things such as IC sockets, I hold tight to my silicone mat, or even with a finger to tack in one pin and go from there.

Only suggestion I’d make, if space permits, use a 600v or 1kv cap instead- that way if you are working on something that has higher voltage present (like a tube amp) you are good

I did see something that followed a similar concept. It was a square frame that held the board. You dropped all components in the PCB, laid a sheet of foam over the components and locked the lid on which held them in place. Then you would simply flip over and solder up the board. Edit: see...

My preference is 24awg “Prebond”. It acts like solid wire when it comes to staying in place, and not dealing with loose wires.. but still flexible enough for strain relief

Also look at the ic closest to the foot switch- pins 6&8 show little to no solder.may be ok on other side though, but wouldn’t hurt to retouch all solder joints

Sounds like you tested it correctly. You don’t need to hold the metal to the lugs, just tap it. If it doesn’t toggle then likely the problem is in the switching logic and not the switch itself

TonePad has one, but if you do all the mods (added: emphasis pot, “direction” switch and “range” switch), the PCB mounted pots and switches of a PPCB build would be a lot easier to deal with! (I hate using flying leads for pots and switches!)

That would be a holy grail SMT project for sure!!

I may have to look into one of these now. I’ve also had good luck with the MXR Envelope Filter getting the “Jerry Tone”, but it does things in a VERY different way (also a fun build I recommend folks checking out!)

That’s how I sorted my j201 for the Ultimatum build… also the inspiration to fork out the $$ for the DCA75

The remote switch jack is a standard 1/8” mono ply (think headphone plug). 2 connectors, tip and sleeve that you just touch the wires

You can also momentarily short the contacts of the “remote switch” port as well to do the same thing

Unlike the original Ibanez pedals in the early-mid 80s. Using one bypassed was about the same as moving from the high to low gain input on your amp- you lost gain, and high end.

Ok you COMPLETELY missed my point and I apologize for being such a shitty communicator- hard to believe English is my native tongue and I’m actually educated at times lol. In other words I believe I may have stated what I was trying to say completely wrong. I NEVER meant that we tweak...

I’m being lazy (but will do the legwork if no one knows off the top of their heads)- other than the component values, isn’t this simpler another Muff variant? Could this be built on a Muffin Fuzz board by simply using these values? Or is there some other circuit changes (jumpers/trace mods etc)?

The thing that makes me ask is: is the perceived tonal difference really due to the fact that discrete components are used vs op amp OR is it because using discrete components facilitate tweaking the bias and Other connecting component values to make them behave like we want (ie outside of the...