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Yes if they were doing series, a trim pot would make more sense than dip switches.

That’s parallel, and the biggest problems with running in parallel is that it messes up the taper of your pot, and it can cause it to thin out the tone as you roll off a bit more. I’d personally use the dip switches for choosing a cap, but use a trim pot in series with the capacitor to dial in...

The only ground loops I had with pedals was back in the day, I had one of those DOD steel pedalboards that the pedals bolted to. So you had pedals all bussed with common ground plane, then connected with patch cables and of course the power supply was non-isolated so you had that ground path...

One thing to remember- just because it has tubes, doesn’t mean it’s going to sound good (especially overdriven! ) Also different amps respond differently to drive pedals. The scooped bass heavy black/silver Fender based amps respond better to lower gain, and mid-focused pedals. Something...

It is, but there are 2 real ways to do it, one is right (resistor and cap in series) and the other is a bad interpretation (resistor and cap in parallel). Only downside is that the resistor value, and to a lesser degree the cap value may vary guitar to guitar. I will say if tuned in right...

Yea, I have like 5 FV1 boards in my queue here, and I took the risk of soldering my own. Talk about learning how to swim by jumping into the deep end! I question every day if I should have sprung for the presoldered option!

At $20/ea, there’s no shame in getting the pre-soldered! Nice build! May have to do one myself now, as I can see it as a fairly useful pedal!

Shouldn’t make a difference. What are you plugging the pedal into? Could be one that doesn’t have a lot of low end response. Also if you are playing into another distortion or distorted amp, bass controls at this point would seem to be a bit weak, as the distortion (and distortion channels)...

A tunable pedal. Perhaps it should be called the Tuna Taco? I mean that’s what Friedman or Steel Panther would have called it!

I can say I’ve been guilty of that a few times. Especially when using 1% metal films with the “extra” band (after using 4 band carbon film/comp resistors for decades— where I know many common values codes from memory ). Not hard to be off by factor of 10

So it’s true BBD analog delay and not the digital approximation. I will say the “slightly annoying” things you mention are all the common complaints we had about most analog BBD delays in the 1980s, and why even the low bitrate digital delays back then were still preferred over analog by most...

I worked for a few years reconditioning/rebuilding those big power circuit breakers (the ones the size of a dorm sized refrigerator and larger). In our shop we saw the good, the bad and the ugly in breakers built anytime over the last 100 years. We also had the same love for the FP breakers…...

When it comes to mass produced, budget price point amps using sub-par PCBs, absolutely. If done right however, it’s negligible—- look how many classic Fender combos we see from the 50s,60s and 70s still going strong

Not saying it’s a smoking gun here, but in tube amps, older carbon comp resistors are the #1 suspect when it comes to “Rice Krispies syndrome” (snaps, crackles,pops and hiss). Would definitely like to hear the result if he takes you up on the offer to repair!

I also agree that a lower wattage power amp would be more practical, since you are looking to reduce the volume of another high powered amp. Even 10w clean power is enough to get the cops called on you and a grumpy bartender asking you to turn down!

I had a couple THD hot plates that I had over the years (used more as a bench load than attenuator, since in most amps a well designed Post phase inverter master sounds pretty much the same and is easier on the tubes/transformers). They actually had the wire wound resistive elements “cemented”...

That’s a good attitude, and I fully respect that! Just wanted to make sure you didn’t have the expectation to save a ton building it. One thing I’d say would be the “gotcha” points with this type of build, is heat management. The reason why a lot of the better attenuators aren’t copied is...

I can also guarantee that once traced out, and suitable iron and other parts sourced, he won’t save any $$ building vs buying.

The Green Chicklets bring back memories of my earliest pedal days back in the 1980s when I’d catch a ride into town and hit Radio Shack to buy parts for my next build

Bb is fine. Wasn’t sure of the clearance with the rotary breakout. Good news though as I had a spare 1590BB here already so that saves me a bit. Just too bad it’s blue and not Barchetta red! lol