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Cathode leg could be touching the metal casing of the LED bezel by the looks of it. LED will always be on then because the metal bezel and by extension the cathode is grounded through the enclosure.

Always looking forward to these updates. Going to be a little sad when the build is finally over :D It sounds really good and looks 100% professional. Great job.

Let's say I have a JFET source follower where the drain is connected through a 100R resistor to a regulated 24VDC (+/-1%). Am I cutting it too close if I'm using FETs that are rated for 25V max drain-gate voltage, like 5457, J211, etc or are these rated rather conservatively?

Best ask @andrewsrea, as he's done a bit of a deep dive on the circuit from what I can tell.

Here's some info: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/ami-spirit-of-76-median-compressor.22924/#post-303001

That's good to know. I've had noise issues with charge pumps on vero before. Layout is important too. Best to keep them away from audio signal paths.

Both based on the TC integrated preamp and the Fortin derivatives. Isosceles should be a bit more versatile since it can also be switched to the Fortin Grind. I'm not sure the Dirty Tree has been traced, so it's anyone's guess if they modded the circuits or kept it stock.

Might be an issue with the raster image. Maybe some pixel around the edges has the same color code as the RDG_WHITE spot color and this is causing problems. It would be better if you used vector graphics only.

Most isolated DC-DC converters have a maximum capacitive load spec. Exceeding this limit can kill the converter or at least result in serious start-up problems from what I read. For capacitors directly across the converter outputs it's easy enough to figure out the load, just add up the values...

One thing to look out for is that hFE ranges given on listings may not be particularly accurate. If it says hFE 50-100 my experience is most of them will likely be around 50 or slightly under, not 75. Of course, there will also be many outliers, so best to order 10-20 rather than singles unless...

Do voltage regulators include filtering and would they be lower noise than the zener diode approach?

That's a thicc boi. I like it.

Just looking through the build doc and I don't think the presence control will be doing much of anything with that large 220K series resistor (R15) and the tiny 25K pot. R15 should really be 22-33K. Presence pot could also be upped to B100K for a wider range of control.

Q1 is a unity gain buffer. A poorly chosen source resistor can negatively affect the output swing range of Q1 and thus provide less than unity gain, but there's a range of values that will work here and unless your J201s are out of spec or something else is going on, both 2.4k and 3.3k should be...

I ordered the board a couple of days ago and I'm very much looking forward to the build! Will definitely do a demo but I haven't even started sourcing parts yet, so it'll be a while. Already thinking of doing a couple of mods though. C6/R11 in the build doc are the raw mode values. Add a 2.2n...

Easy. Follow me for more awesome tips and tricks! :cool: More resistors = more TOAN

I'm just here wondering what my guy @Feral Feline needed a precisely 330147 Ohm resistor for.

Probably something by this guy: https://www.pcbway.com/project/member/?bmbno=19C5FC6C-66B1-46 Edit: Looks like the Catalinbread RAH. https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Catalinbread_RAH_19691b12.html

Turned out fine! A little rough around the edges but it doesn't bother me. I'm happy.

Crafty! Unfortunately, I'm a lazy bum so I'd rather go the pre-made route :D I ordered some of the LMR100 suggested above. We'll see how workable it is.