Search results

Pretty sure it's a 4.7k ... that's on the parts list from what I remember... I'll double check when I get home from work. That's usually what I use

Interesting. I have the mini already but hate you have to take the back off to toggle the different options... I really liked the AionFx one but I can NOT get the led to stop burning out... the resistor is correct, nothing is shorting or anything... it just keeps going through leds

So I'm building the Cleaver boost. I bought the mini Katana some time ago, and didn't really care for it (Robert Keeley himself has stated that it is "different" than previousversionsin the sense of obtaining a perfectly clear, clean boost)... I get it... it's a clean boost, but I understood...

Figured it out... I compared with my other builds and found I had incorrectly placed a 10 k into R2 instead of the required 100k... I must have been in a groove installing the several 10k's and just slipped up... Easy fix...

Or an overheating solder joint... I have a JCM2000TSL that had the common "rectifier" issue... where the amp would warm up, play great, then sound like you gently turned the volume down... after a few moments, it would come back, wash, rinse, repeat... Same with my Fender Blues Deville and the...

It's funny, because I have actually had better luck as a beginner with PedalPCB builds vs others (Musikding, AionFX, etc)... I like that the components are listed ON the pcb, so many times I'll do a build and only print the drill template... If I had one critique/recommendation, it would be...

Can do. Like I said in my initial post, that's my plan, but it was late last night when I finished the build and discovered the problem. I'll post some photos when I get it disassembled and laid out for easier viewing. Just figured I'd start with what was going on in case anyone had any ideas in...

I'm going to have to construct one... since that's a piece of equipment ive yet to employ... I'm still relatively new to pedal building. I'm already certain it's in the input section somewhere, as with all three effects disengaged but pedal on, it's muffling the sound slightly and killing all...

Just finished my third VHS build, and ran into a weird issue... Both previous builds sounded really good... the second being the slightest bit more "lush" than the first... but not substantial enough to matter... Very close ANYWAY, a friend wanted me to build him a VHS as well... I just...

In other words, try it straight into the amp with nothing else and go from there...

You mentioned In the first comment you used it in the chain post TU-2 Tuner and a buffered splitter... Reason I say that is that I've owned some pedals that reacted negatively with the Tu-2 or other buffered effects/tuners, etc... Buffered Bypass can adversely influence the signal... You see it...

Seems that solved the problem... All three seem to be extremely close in sound... so close that it'd be hard to tell them apart in a blind test... Pot tolerance must be really close as well because you can put all knobs and switches on the same settings and hear no differences! Very pleased with...

I'm not seeing a serial on mine... The backplate of the enclosure has a decal saying "Paisley Drive 12-3238" The pcb has "PD_11-10 below the power jack. The film cap DOES look different... I can't see a value, but it's a red plastic WIMA box cap compared to the other Brown film caps. The only...

I order mine from Stompbox parts, and never usually have any problems... a couple will have a slight catch from time to time, but not like this one did... It was so bad, I incorrectly installed the knob, believing it to be at "0"

Here's a few internal shots... The "Farmer John" tbp switch adapter is interesting... I wonder is this was an older run before Brad signed off on it, a prototype or just a factory "code word" used to distinguish them in production. Also pictured are the ones I built... I'm pretty happy with the...

I have the older thru-hole version you have as well, and unless it has a bad cap or something in it, the one I built sounds fuller... It's almost as if the factory version is missing a bunch of mid-range and low mid content to it. Granted, I did buy it used, but it's in relatively good...

To update, I made the call to go ahead and use the 2.2 In my other builds... I hand-picked all components to match the values of my original build... example, the doc calls for two 511k (which don't exist, I found) resistors, I only had 510's, but all tested a touch high at 520k... I rolled the...

Problem solved... Volume pot was defective... I cranked the volume to check the sweep and my knob stopped way short... Rolled it back to (what I thought was) zero and gave a little pressure... the pot "gave" and went on down... like the pot had a really bad "catch" in it... I cycled it a few...

So, I recently completed three identical Boteh drive builds... one for me, two for friends... Two sound relatively identical... One is considerably louder than the other two... To narrow down the issue, I'll also add that the louder of the three also passes signal when the volume on the pedal is...