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I have been curious about the TA7136P magic in the DS-1 for a bit and @Guardians of the analog recent build pushed me over the edge. I figured why stop with the TA8136P, and obtained some 1S2473, and 1S1588 diodes too. My train of thought went to building a SD-1 too. Both the DS-1, and the...

I picked up the PastFX clone of the MF-101. It’s a tiny terror, love it. I hope they do the ring mod etc too. The MS-420 looks awesome! I might have to pick that up.

Small Bear has this on the LM308 product page: “We can no longer say with any certainty what a 'genuine' LM308N is, and will not guarantee it unless we have written documentation (provenance) for a particular batch. “ So genuine level prices for what are likely fakes. That is a pretty shitty...

I’m finishing up the same journey haha. It’s all pretty subtle, but I found 1S2473 the best fit for my ears, but for the DS-1 but I personally want less smooth. Now, for the SD-1 its 1S1588s all the way :)

Beautiful build :) I’m with @Feral Feline on the diode swap. Easy fix. Pot mislabel on the other hand is a heartbreaker haha.

I’m racing to finish all my in progress builds before my Ceriatone amp kit arrives. Clean bench, clean mind?! First up is a Turbo Rat. Self etched using Effects Layouts transfer image. No mods, just a straight up Turbo Rat (my fav of the og Rats). Metal can LM308H 🍆🍆🍆🌶️🌶️🌶️. Second is a IC Big...

It really depends on what you want to achieve with the compressor. I like a compressor to even out the dynamics when I play bass because I am a terrible player haha. Do you want to make the different notes have fewer spikes like in my example above? Do you want more sustain? Etc. Dynamics...

M4268588 makes a good point here. I bought some 1S2473 diodes and measured them, what I saw reminded me of this post. A 1N4148 by itself would be a better approximation of a 1S2473. This chart is for a 1N4148 to compare to the one posted for the 1S2473. The docs for the legacy Comet board...

I’m not familiar with the Thumbsucker or Ray preamp but a higher dB signal will compress more. Also bass signals have a lot of energy, is the Ray pre pumping out lots more bass you potentially can’t even hear (and slamming the compressor)? That why the bass version of the Origin compressors...

I use Kester 331 (water soluble) for everything that can get wet (most things), and wash the board with warm water and a toothbrush. It’ll be clean as a whistle. For the final parts/assembly I switch to Kester 245 (no clean).

Yep! I let the top of the LED stick out a little farther than I would a 5mm LED, and also filled the bezel with hot glue. It’s pretty solid.

You could likely find them cheaper, but here is a Amazon link: https://a.co/d/6fqAs9C

I think most of us have built/bought a few Muffs and discovered which Muff is “their” Muff. Mine is the og Dope Priest/74 Ram’s Head #1 specs. It’s a street fighter. I’ve been wanting to build one with a few extra bells and whistles, but nothing crazy like the Factory haha. The Muffinator board...

I’ve built one. @jwin615 is correct.

20% better?! I’m a DS-1 fan. I’ve been wondering if I should build one with this chip, I guess I better. Awesome build!! 🍆🍆🍆

Thanks for posting, I picked up 2 boxes of ac125 and 1 ac126. I have plenty of Russian low leakage transistors, so somewhat leaky doesn’t sound so bad to me :)

OD3 is a good one. A Precision Drive might be just the thing to make the other pedals and the amp come alive. I like it with drive at zero or near. The ZVex Super Duper or Box of Rock are worthy of consideration too.

My Cronus build turned out to be a solid favorite but I mostly leave it in Hyperion mode. This board and the Moonn Weird Flex will get you 90 percent of the Devi Ever sounds. Maybe add the MAE Soda Miser board with chaos and noise switches too (Red/Yellow pcb). Beautiful pedal @VanWhy 🤘

I do have a caliper somewhere, but a digital one would sure be handy :)

I like Remington/Weico 24AWG Stranded, Top Coat. Top Coat is the mutts nuts.