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Yeah, I'm not too enthused by the idea of randomly swapping parts... I can audio probe it, will get to it when I have a chance. I'll share my findings when done. thanks for your help...

I had that one almost completed for a while, but I was dreading the assembly. I was hoping to socket the 3-pins connections between the boards, but the pins didn’t fit in my sockets. So I went ahead and solder them. Big risk, as if it didn’t work, I would have been in trouble. How do you guys...

I’m looking at that one first, but I don’t see why a non-polarized cap couldn’t be used. Any thoughts ?

So getting back at this… found a bit more info helping to understand what’s wrong. C105 and C106 are the last 2 polarized components I haven’t replaced before considering transistors and the IC. They are both tantalum .22uf. I was wondering if I can swap that with non polarized film box… I...

Ok that’s confusing… so if the power goes to the daughter board and you don’t connect sw, how is the circuit closed by the foot switch to provide power to the board ? How does the main board gets its power ?

LMAO did that just a few days ago testing a new Joyo amp. Wanted to see how my TS would crank it, totally reversed in/out and plugged my guitar in the out and amp in the in. As you know, funny thing is bypass was working... so I thought, dang my TS is messed up. So I pulled a MUF from the...

If you reflow and it all works, you know your mistake is on the soldering technic. Knowing where you made this mistake is unlikely going to be significant to your learning. I personally don't see value in knowing where I made a bad solder, just the fact that I made one brings me to pay more...

Which leg did you put in the square pad for your LED ? It should be short leg in the square pad. Carefull beacuse the build doc is misleading showing the LED with the short leg on the right, while the board has the square pad on the left. Square pad on the right above, but on the left on...

QQ, where did you source your 2N5457, there has been many cases of fake ones from non-reputable sources...

Oops just realized I pointed him at the Fuzz Factory instead of the Fuzz Foundry. Sorry if I mislead you….

This one ...

Any suggestion on that… I’ve been scared to buy cheap, read many times they didn’t measure gain properly…

Your fuzz factory board silkscreen will have the BCE holes identified. Just match the legs to the right hole. If you need to cross the legs, use some shrink wrap to avoid shorts.

One more trick, if you have a looper pedal, record a loop and let it play, much easier than trying to strum while holding the probe :D

Just got a Joyo BantamP. They have different models that sounds like classic amp. They are cheap, small footprint, support headset and Bluetooth for backtrack. Find more info in this thread: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/nad-a-mini-one.12596/#post-136017

If you say input/output sound more like you want to trace audio and not voltage. Using a DMM isn’t the right tool, you want an audio probe. check this for DIY: http://diy-fever.com/misc/audio-probe/

You’ll need to post pictures for any help. Usually, people will expect that: - you’ve done a clean up of the board - you’ve done a visual inspection for solder bridge and bad solder point - verified that all polarized components were installed correctly - All pots have isolation (dust cover or...

I was never a fan of expensive headphones, I guess there’s a difference, but I can’t hear it. So.. I bought a set of these 2 years ago. One for him and one for her. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07WT15ZQF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Best feature is, you can daisy...

So there was only one other radial polarized cap I could spot A 10uf. The other 2 radial are non-polarized, 1uf, never seen that before… Swapped the 10u, no change. Now the schematic shows polarized cap at C5 and C6, but on the board they only look like ceramic.

@PedalPCB, you might remember we discussed this issue on a different thread. Any insight as to why we wouldn’t get the expected 4.5V at Vref ?