Search results

Ah ok, that makes sense! One switched jack for each loop send, and then I can unplug the delays and still have my signal pass through. As promised:

Haha I will get some pics! Mmmm, pink Himalayan is my favorite :) Can you explain the purpose/advantage of the switching jacks for the loop jacks? I've not used them often, and I forget why I did. I have them in stock though. I think I get the isolated jacks for the remote switching though...

Change of plans! I looked at the Orion guts, and it's a pair of PCBs connected via ribbon cable, so I don't think I'm going to rehouse them. I plan on using this layout: I'm going to use a 1590BBS, to make things easy on myself lol. I'm also going to take your advice and use a relay for each...

Bearfoot Pink Purple fuzz!!!

Gorgeous!

We're thinking along the same lines, which is reassuring that I'm not way off track lol. I plan on attaching the intact dust cover to the enclosure itself, not cutting them. I figured I would punch the center of each hole on the enclosure to use it as a template, but I didn't even realize I...

Did some thinking on this, how to organize all 3 pedals on my board. Initially I thought about using a riser, with the slap back Orion underneath since it won't need tweaking, the longer/changeable Orion on top of the riser, and the switcher... somewhere. But it occurred to me that I could try...

Perfect, thanks! Vero strip is smart and what I'll likely do. I think I might try to do a double/2-in-1 LED to save some space and wiring.

Wonderful, thank you! That's much easier for me to follow, save for the grounding. I could do a star ground I guess. Or use the middle row of lugs? I don't actually know if I need a ground lug on the switches, but to ground the unused input per best best practice would need it, no? Thanks...

N1 it is! And I think you're right on the relay for the A/B switch. I have several non-intelligent ones already built in bulk, but I'm not sure on why I would need the intelligent ones. I've never used them and don't fully understand their use cases. I do think I'll need a relay switching...

Thanks again! What is the difference between a 125B and a 1590N1? I've always assumed they were the same thing size-wise. Good call on needing a relay for the A/B switching. So far I think I would be OK with just remote switching on/bypassed, which would simplify things greatly. But it's good...

Replying to myself, I think I have an idea on getting a remote switch working. I could use a standard PPCB relay bypass as the master on/off switch, which uses a SPST momentary switch. Add another jack and cable that runs out to a tiny enclosure with another momentary SPST switch. Voila. I think...

That's perfect, plenty of room for what I'm doing! Thanks Cybercow!. I'll be using all mono Lumberg jacks as well, so I'd have a little more room from that too 1590B it is!

Oh, I had another idea! What if I make the main on/off switch remote switchable? I've never done it before, I'm certain it's possible, but I don't know how. I've done it for Strymon pedals and amps, but they are simpler than this, just momentary SPST or something, simply needing to temporarily...

Thank you! I would absolutely rather build it myself. But it's nice to know if I screw it up or can't get it working I have a backup plan. And that diagram honestly seems simpler than I expected, with LEDs even! Where is it from? Can't place MDC, but I recognize the image style. I looked into...

Found exactly what I need from Saturnworks!

After some digging in the Utility section, it looks like the Passive A/B/Y might be what I'm after? I can't quite tell.

Question for the hive mind. I am trying to build the smallest A/B switcher that also has an on/bypassed switch. I have a UAFX Orion that I really like for slapback and longer delays, but it doesn't have presets. My idea is to get another Orion, leave them both enabled, and then A/B switch them...

This is how I do it, and it works quite well. I tack solder an outer pot lug, but same concept. Then lightly tighten down the pots inside the drilled box, and do the final soldering pass. Same for toggles, though they don't always give you quite as much wiggle room after tack soldering.

What a beast! A true challenge for sure. Where did you get the board? I don't see any markings on it.