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I just bought 100 J113 JFETs from Mouser. Here in Australia they were 71c for one, 22c each for 100. Free shipping.

I've used Warmoth a few times and the quality is excellent.

I'm waiting for part 6.

Probably my all time favourite TS mods are as follows: I take great care to follow the TS-808 narrow box schematic. The TS-9 just isn't the same. I also prefer 1N4148 diodes over 1N914s as the 914s don't "bloom" in the same way. I like to use just a bit more diode: 2 1/2 usually. Metal film...

Mine used to be the OKKO Diablo. But since reading Chuck's excellent thread on it not only have I built one which works but modified some which work for me even better. It's all to do with how you select the JFETs. J201s are a PITA. Never had a problem with other JFETs, just J201s.

Oh I dunno - have you seen that Gilmour Strat (the black one) which was routed out for various things including a Kahler then filled in again? What did it sell for?? A decent luthier should be able to resurrect it - or at least get an opinion from.

I think Michael did a good job of scrubbing it off then. :)

Me??

You know I'm just gonna try it with a dual opamp for the latter two stages don't you? 🤪

I used to photograph a Kiwi model called Tui. She told me she was named after a NZ bird. She was quite a character. Damn - that was nearly 30 years ago! You're pretty good at this illustration thing! (Aussie understatement alert)

I almost added in my post that I haven't bought anything from LMS in ages because of the postage costs. I don't think I've bought much at all from the US this year - it's just too expensive. Tayda is our savior. I wish I could find those knobs somewhere else. I've been using these in various...

Just fantastic. To good to stomp on.

Love the graphics on the tape delay. The only issue I have with those spun aluminium knobs is that it can be hard to see the white indicator mark against the reflections on the top of the knob sometimes. Love My Switches sell some matt finish silver knobs which I love because you can see the...

It doesn't.

I would suggest trying a Big Muff of some sort or a Pandora's Box set to the "forbidden" mode. Experiment with some delay and/or reverb. There are loads of great fuzz pedals out there.

I think Josh's "problem" is that he comes across as a bit smug. I don't really mind him. But I don't really find his pedals very compelling either. Pretty sure Mythos is a one-guy operation. I don't think he's much of a pedal designer - his pedals are super derivative to the point where the...

What kind of sound are you aiming for?

I'm looking at my schematic now, comparing it with the EP Boost... Not sure how easy my version would be to build on the PCB. I did away with all the switches and the charge pump. Added a bass control between the transistors - possibly could be done but it would be a mess!

I like the idea of the Arche boost - two knobs; bass and level. Once you have tamed the highs they work well. I ended up modding the Xotic EP Boost circuit to have just those two controls - it's a simpler circuit and I like the sound even more. :)

In an actual Marshall amp the first way to cut low end is via the first stage cathode bypass cap. In a 1959 Super Lead the normal channel is biased cool with an 820R cathode resistor and a 330µA bypass cap, and the lead channel is biased hot with a 2K7 cathode resistor and a .68µF bypass cap...