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Thanks Chris! You all know I don't build a lot, but I put love into it when I do.

Hi everyone--finally joining in the fun around here with my first build report on this forum. I sold a Tone Machine build I had done a while back because it was so rough-looking. I wanted a PCB that was pretty much a straight clone with no mods, so this one definitely fit the bill. I did try to...

Whoa! That is nuts. Love it as always.

I like the cat theme! I've often though of putting the Maneki-Neko on a Japanese fuzz circuit like the Super Fuzz of Fuzz Master.

Okay, that is good to hear! I've had my eye on this...

Yeah, I think that's true! I don't think any of the originals sounded exactly the same from one unit to another. I'd like to do a vero of the Zonk Machine version soon in order to try out some of my remaining germanium stash...

That's the funny thing with this circuit--more leakage in Q3 is actually what will give you more smoothness and sustain. Less leakage is what will get that rawer gated sound going. It's a matter of taste I'd say. I like how your build sounds!

I had a similar problem on a FSH I built a while back (Madbean Sharkfin PCB), but for me, the LFO ticking only came through in bypass. Like yours though, it was only on the sample/hold side. I always suspected that it actually had to do with the rate LED. You could try disconnecting that and...

Cool! Which ge transistors are those G.E.s you've got there? I have some old 2n1305 that look like that.

Ah, that makes sense about the BAT46! Also, thanks for clarifying about the 300-500k. I wasn't sure what was a good starting point for saying leaky or not...

Just wanted to report back that I finally got some time to try this out according to Chuck's methodology. Interesting results! A couple of old 1n279 that I have measure at 1m or just below in reverse. The best I had beyond that was a 1n60 (O.G. ge, not Schottky like the 1n60p) at about 300k...

Yes! Jubal81 started started that thread I talked about back in the day, and now here he comes with a G2 on the breadboard. Thanks to Jason and Chuck for steering this in the right direction...now I've got to try this out myself.

I feel like I remember reading that you have to measure resistance across the diode one way, and then the other. The higher "reverse resistance", the less leaky the diode is. It's jubal81 who frequents these parts who would be able to explain what I'm talking about. I've actually been meaning to...

Oh yeah, same sparkle technique as the flanger you did back then! Seems like anything that's modulation and has a flashing indicator would fit the bill.

Love the theme! I was obsessed with this movie back when I was seven or so. Watched it with my daughters and they thought it was hilarious. This is still my favorite phase circuit.

I would probably put it before the IC, maybe just wired between your DC jack and where 9v goes into the board. Your collector voltages look fine to me. I can tell they're probably not that leaky except for Q3. I would imagine the volume knob cleanup with your guitar is good given the Q2 voltage.

Youch! ;) I see what you mean.

I've built a couple of MkIIs and they tend to get this oscillation with the fuzz up all the way when the circuit is getting a full nine or more volts. In my case, since I built them on vero, I just went with a slightly "broken in" battery (around 8.5v) and it sounds great. What kind of power...

Yes! I totally remember the original Whisky River. I was kind of scared to take one of those builds on due to the voltages, etc. But man, that was a cool project.

That's awesome that you mentioned the Supersuckers! I'm pretty sure I've never heard them come up in a DIY build report before. ;) Now of course I will need to hunt down a demo of this circuit as it was totally not on my radar!