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I think I found a couple other things I ordered wrong so I went ahead and ordered the correct ones (according to a post talking about which type of caps are best for which type of values) cuz I didn't want to ever buy another noise gate or make another so I wanted to make sure I made it as good...

quite a few spots that could use some more solder it seems, at least from the visible side

with the left style mine dont stay in very well normally

immediately noticed there are partial empty spots on the switch pads but anyway awesome!

hey just to make sure you know this pedal works differently from the boss ns2, so you dont use the x 4 cable method you put the top in and out in the fx loop and side in and out just in line (and you can mess with whether its after a compressor/boost/dsistortion etc..

Wire a switch to the blend knob instead of having the pot control it? Also the volume knob only controls the distortion side of it so you might need to make another volume circuit, so in the end that plus your tonestack is basically making another pedal.

the switches are the only thing that changes the tone it is a distortion/overdrive pedal if you want a full on preamp with tone knobs and such id make a different pedal

generally if you use it after a boost pedal thats boosting a lot into your amp, set it to high, if not keep it on low

You sound like someone who needs to be told to clean their room. (sorry if thats too rude but your making excuses to clean up so you do) Another good reason is so random little bits of metal (ie clipped leads or metal shavings from the drilled box) don't stick to the flux and short something...

If I was making pedals for people, and I let an oven do all the soldering and checked it after then i'm sure it'd save time, but unless i'm doing that I don't see any pros besides that desoldering would be easier.

quoting chuck from his first response to my post "1) Read the other posts in this forum. 2) Clean your board with IPA & a toothbrush. 3) Perform a thorough visual inspection of all components and solder joints. Use good lighting and magnification. 3a) For examples of bad solder joints, look at...

When i built mine i had a bunch of problems. Including a couple of wrong capacitors and one of the capacitors didn't have a solid connection and when i would push the capacitor i figured out that seemed to be the main thing that was making the sound not working right. I think it was the 220nf...

Checked which leg is which color and put it backwards instead and now it works. Thank you.

Oh ok, I matched the red to r and green to g or so I thought but i'll swap it around real quick!

The only thing about that is, i looked at what clr you'd use for that led at different voltages and 5.6k is not what youd use, so im kinda confused, because youd only use 390 ohm, not 5.6k, so i wonder if it has somewhat of a different function. So i tested by just putting a 3k across the 5.6k...

well r22 seems to be for the red side and r21 is for the green side so thats why i was thinking that but im not sure exactly how the that4301 works so idk

hm maybe so (edit: checked review of the real zuul at least and switches completely to green) I do have another but its from the same company and testing it with a cr2032 it seems just as bright as when i tested the other. (though i'm sure in the actual circuit it runs at higher than 1.5) should...

Cleaned circuit board with rubbing alcohol, took out the led tested led again, put it back in, tested pedal, still no. It seems to change color a touch like its adding a little yellow to the red and making it sort of orange, but not switching to full green.

As i figured it was mostly unnecessary since the ground is connected through the case, but still want to know if it could potentially cause any problems, or if i should the top 2 ground pads of the main board, or anything like that. (and could it be causing the green side of the led to not be...

referencing my thread that chuck helped me with "Measure the DC voltage on IC2-3 and IC2-2 with no input signal. They should be equal (assuming you are using a good DMM) and somewhere between 2.5 and 5V." "Lotta people have been having problems with J201s (as evidenced in this forum). Let's...