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I just finished my muzzle and the led is staying solid red whole turned on instead of switching between red and green while playing no matter how I adjust the knob or flip the h/l switch. I tested it while in an enclosure, while out, using sidechain jacks, without sidechain jacks, tested the led...

I'm using the power io module in my muzzle build and I'm gonna finish it up soon and I just want to check because I havent found any wiring diagrams with that module, should I run the grounds from the main board just to a ground point of the jacks that poke through? Because I see an additional...

I can't tell if the switch is wired correctly because all the wires being twisted and blocking view of some of it. Double check that if you haven't already.

I saw the capacitor type post in general and decided to check if i ordered the right types the other night for the muzzle noise gate and some of them are wrong according to it. I did a little research on caps and the schematic as well. So I'm wondering as some pre troubleshooting is it worth...

Hopefully sooner cuz I know how much of a pain it is to get some items at my job for that reason. Sweet! I suppose I should get working on a smallbear or tayda shopping cart going for all the little parts I need :D

Is it gonna be march 14th? I ask because at my job some of the companies we get stuff from have told us restocks would be then (due to corona/wuhan, imports, etc...). Another question, is the restock for https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/ic-that4301/ delayed until then? Because as soon as it's...

Whenever this interface board comes out maybe using this case (painted or something) and a friedman be-od deluxe board or maybe a bigger one to make a little amp head :D...

I didn't know there were places that sold PedalPCB kits. That would've saved me so much time finding each and every part through different sites and paying seperate shipping etc.. Are there any sites that do that in the US instead?

ok the distortion is still cutting in and out(everything maxed for testing) while flipping switches every once in awhile still doing the flickering when off

i have taken the board out of the box so many times i dont understand how a short lead was under that the whole time, i dont want to believe that was the issue.

its working? it was starting to cut in and out again while testing (specifically while poking ic3) so i pulled ic3 out and then there was a short lead under the resistors beside it that i had never seen before (dont know if it was under ic3 the whole time or not, but i think at one point i...

From either leg it reads around 1 meg (takes awhile to settle). In one of the pictures it seems one of the legs is touching the cap but i moved it away just in case a while back.

I guess my last options are, buy the cap I need, another cd4049, and 1n4148's. Swap them in that order and test in between, and if it doesnt work give up.

Nope, did some quick probe on the ic points ic1-1, ic2-2. ic2-3 since it wasn't working and still weak signal on ic2-3 with drive and volume all the way up, blend to dist , flipped switches so they arent in middle (because louder when up or down instead). no distortion flipping switches still...

The bags look similiar to the bags in terms of the material that the ic's i got from mouser came in, but dont have the label no. :/

I think I got those from mammoth electronics, if not then I got them from mouser, and they are the "ube" ones

Alright I'll try that after work and put the highest reading here for each. But yeah besides that everything should be correct, it's just some of the box caps I can't see the label cuz some of them have it on one of the bigger sides instead of the top, but it's right beside another box cap

I measured all the resistors. The ones i marked are reading at around half value, and its making me wonder whether they are in parallel or if a capacitor is messing up a reading or something so i figured id check with you first before i swapped them. I double checked by color codes and they are...

I believe those two caps that have been the wrong ones are the only wrong parts. Checked all the caps, (except theres a couple of the box type that i cant see the label) and they're all good besides of course c8. The green caps are supposed to be nonpolar and have no marks to indicate otherwise...

I wonder if the cap I used to have beside c8 (that I had to swap with a resistor) was the correct one for c8 :(