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edit: numbers wrong Has anyone checked the price difference at JLCPB between a self designed for example 4x5 (results in 100 single pcb because of min 5 pcb order) panel and a single pcb ordererd in 100pcs ?

You could use the continuity tester to check if the traces on the pcb are ok. digi2t from Dead End FX is online very often on diystompboxes. Maybe ask there. https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?action=profile;u=27162

Your DMM should have a continuity tester. Put one probe on pin 2 and one on 1 and toggle the switch. Then do the same with pin 2 and 3. If the sound going on and of your switch is ok.

EDITR: dang it I was to late :-) There is also a great tone generator included https://www.roomeqwizard.com/

Sweet bejesus this is so cool!

Can you show in a picture? I don’t get it.

The LCR needs to be turned. The arrow marks the anode of the LED (long lead). I did this too :) You can see the right side with its widening (?) on th eleads like it's on every LED.

Tube town has some nice amps kits https://www.tubetown.net/ttstore/en/kits/tube-amp-kits/ But the shipping woul dbe an issue I guess... (Germany -> USA)

Brymen BM257

The pcb is for side mounted jacks. To be fair also with side mounted jacks there is another cap in the way if the jacks are mounted centered on the side. Top mouinted is no problem when the jacks are moved further to the corners with th elugs pointing up and down.

Only bright to normal. Custom pcb https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/feta-for-a-hungry-practice-session.22834/#post-288321

Maybe it could be done better but switching is sometimes mind boggling to me. The only difference is the volume. I run the bright channel into the normal channel. But please: don’t judge me if you cut traces and it doesn’t please you in the end!

For my bass I use a EBS Micro 3 when I sit on the couch in the evening and I wanted something similar for my guitar. But the ideas are endless and there are so many dirtboxes out there. I built a Mofeta a few weeks ago and was pleased with it so I decided to do this couch project now. Maybe...

Sounds good! I used a DPDT toggle switch but it can be done otherwise for sure serial <--> parallel S3 <- S1 -> S2 S5 <- S4 -> S3 S5 -> S6

I used an L-7113GC with similar specs to the original led because I couldn't get a WP7113GT. The range of manual is now much better without a piece of paper :-)

I jumpered the pads of R26 like Anthonyj did it and I have a beautiful modulation also on the space output.

If it is only the switching a 3PDT will suffice. If it's part swapping then not.

I will :-) I just did not want to scratch traces on my perfectly fine finished Mofeta. I have to wait for the parts to arrive.

Yes that‘s what the original does but what if I take the „output“ of bright and connect it to the normal input?

A 3PDT would do the job then.