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The jack looks like its touching I believe is what he is pointing at. Since thats the tip of the jack that would cause a short and cut the audio out. I would try turning it a little so you don't have to worry about clearance. If its not passing audio in bypass or active look to the jack, lol.

Just finished up the Maelstrom. Its based on the Darkglass Microtubes B3K. Great Bass overdrive. It can be clean or get really crunchy. Lots of different sounds in this box. It will definitely live on my bass board. I wish i would have found this one sooner.

I have to admit i am already thinking of which pedal to try this on. Thanks for the write up.

Technically it should still work. The connecter is a little finicky to get seated properly. You may want to gently pull it out and try re- seating it. Don’t force it but make sure its all the way in on both sides. I actually bent the whole group of wires to make it more of a straight shot to put...

Got this one finished off this morning. What a cool pedal. It almost goes into snyth like areas when you have the octaves cranked. This will definitely be one of those find a place on the board pedals. I have never really messed with an octave pedals like this is it’s all new territory. This was...

Your welcome. Just take your time. It’s a great build. With a little practice the stacked boards are just like any other build, they just fit in a smaller box (usually, lol). When you have multiple headers like that too, you may just want to solder one leg of each one first. That way if it’s not...

This should work. You will have to do a little work though. You may just be sble,to replace the one wire. If not you can get an extra screen and I can verify that it does work...

So I didn’t really have any expectations going in. I generally don’t like tons of knobs on delays, I like them pretty straight forward. This one, with some fiddling, got some really nice delay sounds. It seems like it could be really versatile. On the other end there are some settings that are...

Yes, the longer screws are for the 125b. It should be pretty snug and not move at all.

Fixed. Not sure what was going on.

I need to figure this out. Right now i have edited a 125b foot print that has knob placements etc. i i place it temporarily so i can have my pots in the correct place. It also helps me draw the board within the correct dimensions. In eagle i had the hole board pre done based on pots. Already...

877 cash now

Ty ty Ty

Thanks Robert. I will give it a look.

I finally found it but the it only shows on the pcb layout side not the schematic side. It also doesn’t pop up a box like it’s supposed to. I read about it on the guys GitHub and it may not support newer versions of KiCad.

So essentially build it just like symbol (KiCad terms) and place it like a part. That would probably work. I have this plug in installed but have never seen where the plugin actually is. It doesn’t load in the top bar like all the other plugins I have installed and I can’t find it in the menus...

So I was wondering how to do circuit snippets? I know there is supposed to be a way how but I have no clue. What I mean is there are certain things that I use on a lot of circuits that would be a lot easier not to have to build each time. For example the power section or my off board wiring...

This is a great write up! One thing I might suggest for your first few times doing a fret level is to get a radius block to do the initial sand of the frets. It will take less time and be less likely to cause high and low spots vs using the smaller beams. Make sure it matches your neck radius...

I found it finally.

Title says it all. Anyone have the KiCad footprint for the 3p4t alpha switch from tayda? I can make it but prefer not to if someone already has it.