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The old school delays like the DM-2, MM, AD-9 ect all have pretty short delay times. Might be fun to lean into that. Are you thinking of doing modulation?

For the PT2399 I’m not particularly fond of them on the longer delay times. I’m going to guess maybe 300-400 is around the max for me. That gives you most of the delay times you would want without being set to the tempo but you probably would need longer times for that. 1 4/4 beat at 120BPM...

Hmm I’m pretty happy with Fuzz Aldrin into XB MB into Moxie. I will reserve the other two until I get some more built.

Do both areas read 9 volt or do legs 6 and 11 of IC 3 read lower than legs 4 and 8 of the TL072? Edit:corrected pin

I think I got what your saying you want a pad there for the DC ground to hook onto to show its external to the circuit. Have you looked into adding ground planes yet? I think to do that all the grounds have to be named the same...

This article has lots of good info on clipping diodes. https://www.guitarpedalx.com/news/news/a-brief-hobbyist-primer-on-clipping-diodes To add to Brett’s comment about hard vs soft clipping you could add soft clipping by placing diodes across either C5 or R5 and have them on a switch.

I’m also learning KiCAD. To start I actually think your schematic looks good already. I think for the missing stuff like the ins and outs you want to create a symbol with a matching footprint that will line up with whatever IO you have planned on the board. I think for getting the capacitors...

That thing is really impressive!

I’m guessing it has to do with the position of the trimmer. I’m not 100% why it’s here but It looks like it either dumps the IC before it to ground or passes it to the threshold pot. I’m guessing you adjust it by ear try it in the middle and go from there.

Congrats on number 200!!!

Very cool. Love the hand drawn schematic, point to point wiring and custom enclosure.

Got it. Box looks nice. What I have bought from them has mostly been good. Some of it I have found the same thing much cheaper else where. Have you considered Ebay...

I would consider repairing it with some pins brazed brass pins into a few holes. It won’t be perfect but you will never get metal in that condition again and it maintains as much of the instrument as possible. The rivets might be easy to remove from the rear and could possibly even be...

That came out really nice. This one is in my to do list.

Thank you! I feel your pain about both traveling without a guitar and the narrow nut widths. I used to travel 3-4 nights a week when I did sales. I traveled with a classical in a backpack style gig bag but it was a bit of a pain. This one is a little narrower than I really like but is wide...

It’s this one...

This thread https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/missing-build-docs-schematics.3784/page-53#post-213182 has a schematic trace for this board and it shows that R13 is possibly a 100K resistor. Maybe try a higher value and see if it help?

Perhaps a long shot but on the one pedal I have build that pops noticeably to me the Thermonic distortion. The proximity of the wires to the board and each other seems to affect the loudness of the popping I keep meaning to go back and shield it to see if it goes away. That being said. Have...

I took a little break from pedal building and this is what I made instead. It is from a kit but I ended up making a bunch of changes before I was happy with it. I recut the top of the headstock to get rid of the nut, carved a larger body contour on the rear, an arm contour on the front, a...

Not sure if you saw this but I just happened to come across it and thought it might be of interest to you. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/unicab-with-input-switch-thru-and-balanced-xlr-out.887/ https://tataylino.com/simple-di-box/ Looks like it would be easy to try.