Search results

C-taper will have a funky sweep in this circuit because it was tailored for B-taper. For C100K to have a decent sweep, leave pin 1 open on both pots (delete R16 & R19). change R17 & R19 to 15K and scale C6-C9 up by 1.5x. Not quite as smooth of a sweep as the circuit above, but definitely good...

Not surprised that you could not get it going with Si. You would need to make large changes to the resistors.

Here's the latest, based on the Yamaha G-100-II Parametric EQ circuit. Very similar to the FreakZEQ, but has a little more tuning and Q range. Both work well. I re-familiarized myself with Bill's Law a few time on this one.

I like that circuit! It can be tuned to work just like the SoK and has some advantages over the SoK. It's DC-coupled throughout, so biasing is simple. No Vref buffer req'd. No interaction between GAIN & Q. The only downside is it requires one more opamp for the input buffer. One could...

This EQ pedal kicks ass. My breadboard is built pretty much per the build docs, but I subbed a few parts when I didn't have a few oddball values. A word of warning, this circuit does not take kindly to mods. Don't ask me how I know that. If I had to guess, this design is based on an earlier...

Look for a very simple delay circuit, such as the PPCB Seabed Delay. The PT2399 datasheet also contains some example delay circuits.

You're welcome. The LEDs are supposed to cure distortion issues. My experience with distorting PT2399s is that there are good ones and bad ones. The LED fix doesn't help if the PT2399 in question is a "bad one." I've breadboarded quite a few PT2399 delays, flangers & choruses and didn't need...

This is so off-topic.

HamishR asked me if I had tried the Basic Audio Alter Destiny. I hadn't. Just another BMP, right? Maybe not. I liked the bright cap on the FUZZ pot and the FAT knob (I can hear you snickering). The gain is somewhat reduced in the distortion stages and there is the familiar variable MID knob...

I've seen clear protoboards for sale, but have yet to buy one. I think they look cool. Yes, pot leads are too big for protoboards and will permanently deform the contacts.

Ooooooh, clear protoboard 😍 Did you measure the emitter voltage on Q3?

Look for a different tranny for Q3 to produces a lower voltage on E. Shoot for 2.5V to 3V. The top end of the FILTER knob is only useful with low GAIN settings IMHO. Also, try my mod of installing 1nF from Q3-E to GND. It mellows out the top end slightly.

I am sure the schematic is correct. My breadboard works just like the youtube demo. It does indeed get trebley when the filter knob is above noon. You're free to make mods, but please don't pass them off as corrections. BTW, do you have C5 installed? What voltages do you get on Q2-E & Q3-E?

That was my observation with this circuit. It's not that simple since there are non-linear elements (MOSFETs Q1 & Q2) in parallel with C13 & GAIN pot. In general, the effect of C13 will be more pronounced when GAIN is turned up, but it also depends on the strength of the input signal.

It reduces the harmonics when the MOSFET clipping is selected.

And thanks to Szukalski for the board & front panel. (y)

A more accurate way to describe it is the voltage drop across the series resistance (COMP pot) is proportional to the undistorted input voltage and that is summed with the clipped voltage across the diodes. There are a number of ways to implement clean bleed. I did it this way. The effect of...

Finally got one boxed up. Red LED of course. The GE diodes are Д9Е. The Si diodes are 1SS119TA. The clipping LEDs will light up in Boost mode if the GAIN is dimed. Box is Tayda pre-drilled. I enlarged the LED hole for the toggle switch and drilled the LED hole next to the stomp switch...

More compression. A non-inverting soft clipper, like the TS for example, has a built-in clean bleed because the input signal is summed with the clipped signal. The clean bleed reduces compression, which may or may not be desirable. An inverting soft clipper has no built-in clean bleed. The...

Your DMM should tell you. One direction will have a much higher resistance reading than the other. In that direction, the DMM's positive lead is on the cathode. You are holding the cathode end, according to the symbol printed on the diode body. :oops: