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Hmm, a multicolor GR LED sounds interesting to me. Say, not lit =no GR, green =3dB, yellow=6dB, red >= 10dB. Something like that. With maybe some blue thrown in. Minimal footprint, lots of information.

I admire the small one-man-show builders who manage to make pedals and sell them into such a saturated market and somehow still pay themselves fairly for their work. I briefly made pedals and got out of it when I saw how much work they were -- even though they sold well at a price well above the...

I like to think of that cap as a placeholder, in case you want to replace it at some point with one that actually does something. Looks a bit prettier than an unpopulated footprint, I guess?? Depending who's looking.

I don't know if they're the same, but I recently bought the Amazon ones (Daiertek) and I like how they feel. Not too much force required, not overly clicky. No idea about longevity.

I've used ATTINY. Even if JLC doesn't have any of them as a basic part, as long as LCSC does, you're good. You'll just have to pay a $3 or so extra charge for loading the non-basic part spool on the pick and place machine.

I think the takeaway is that once a component gets p-h-u-c-k-e-d, it usually stays so.

1% resistors need 5 bands to be able to express the E96 values: 3 significant digits, 1 multiplier, 1 tolerance. I see 100 ohms 1%. The tolerance band is further away from the others.

Yeah, I wouldn't worry too much. If you get solder on one side and it also fills the inside of the plated hole, it's fine. There's no real need to also wet the pad on the other side - though it's neat when that happens in a nice way.

Well, you can't optimize for everything:

^ Bring it on, mine is smaller! (said noone ever :p)

The variable input impedance (particularly the super high Z options) is not that useful in a pedal because by the time the signal gets to it, it's already been loaded down by the guitar's volume/tone pots as well as the cable's capacitance, it's too late to "unload" it. It really makes a...

Sounds to me like the power supply is using a switching regulator that skips clock cycles at light load, which effectively lowers the switching frequency down into the audio band. Lots of them do this, otherwise they'd have a hard time maintaining voltage regulation when there's barely any load...

Add a resistor in series with the input, somewhere in the 1k to 10k range, and it ought to go away. Some input stages (and/or circuit layouts) just don't like being completely shorted to ground.

Where are you located? I'm in Canada, Digikey shipping is C$8. So is Mouser if you don't just accept the default, but dig through the options and select the cheapest (USPS).

Mouser, of course. I don't trust any part that does not come with a datasheet and from a known manufacturer with a website, address etc.

Since this seems to invite discussion, here's my C$0.02. (n) Disagree on all counts. I do all of the above on a regular basis and actually prefer it to doing the same with through hole parts. YMMV. (n) I couldn't disagree any stronger. I avoid non-plated-through holes like the plague...

Needs a tone pot.

FWIW, I use white for input (makes me think of innocent, celestial, bride, not f*cked with yet) and yellow for output (the idea being that it's more colored than the input). Red is always the positive rail and ground is black. If there's a negative rail, I'll pick a cold color like blue or purple.

If you do buy MLCC, never get anything worse than X5R or X7R, and overspec the voltage by a factor of 3 or more if there's a DC bias across the cap. That's pretty much it, in a nutshell.

If they work as expected in-circuit, I'd say that's the gold standard. Who is DCA75 to say otherwise? I tested and sorted all my MMBF201's in-circuit.