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Hmmm... Yeah, not fun. I imagine I'd desolder that transistor, flip it and solder it upside down (assuming I don't break the pins in the process). I've done worse things :) I'd actually use a fresh transistor if I had a stash, rather than try to reuse the desoldered one.

^ I would think it's easier to cut and reroute some traces on the PCB to get the pins where they need to be, rather than replace the SMD transistor with a through hole, no?

@jwin615's troubleshooting checklist is very thorough. I'd just add that all humbuckers are definitely not equally good at humbucking, and NO amount of copper shielding the cavity will make any difference if the noise source is an electromagnetic field (such as leakage from a nearby power...

The 386's output drives an LED directly in this circuit. Maybe the extra current drive it's capable of was needed for this purpose. BTW, I wouldn't think that the cleaner tone with less distortion you're after would happen with a TL071. PT2399 is a pretty low fi/noisy/dirty chip at longer...

I was going to jump in and offer some hopefully helpful advice but procrastination got the better of me. Glad to be here just in time to see that the problem is solved. Don't you just love it when that happens? 😁

Pro tip : take a red Sharpie to a Kemet and make yourself a Wima.

Certainly more effective and less expensive than an egg bomb these days, if you're American.

One thing about tantalum caps that I really hate is that if they fail, they get as hot as a thermite and can easily burn a hole right through an FR4 PCB. I am told that these days they don't fail nearly as frequently as they used to, but my trust was lost long ago.

My uncle is perfectly equally lazy.

I reiterate that C1 is a placeholder. By that, I mean it's present on the schematic to generate a footprint on the PCB, which I may or may not want to populate, but it's useful to have. Primary function is not as an RF filter. That's just a side effect that's probably not really necessary with...

Exactly. Where does your -V come from? There's nothing in this circuit that's more negative than the ground.

"Hash" tag RPCO caps. Rolling Paper in CBD Oil. Made Rolled in Canada by Maricon. Distributed in Europe by Mouser Netherlands.

I haven't had a need to use any tantalum caps in at least 5 years. Where would they be so explicitly needed that you can't use a large MLCC instead? Maaaaybe under a computer CPU, but... in a pedal?

Next time you roll a joint, think about it. You could have made a capacitor! Just add CBD oil and a strip of tin foil. And when it blows up and releases the magic smoke, good times!

Good point. I've done it that way too, in a circuit where there was no microcontroller or even any IC at all. Just relay logic (good thing they taught us relay logic back in high school, or it wouldn't have occurred to me). But in a particular pedal I had to use an attiny anyway, so I might as...

Nah, just lazy. I truly do not know anyone lazier than me. OK, maybe my teenage son.

EA2-5TNU from Kemet/Yageo. 28mA coil current. ATTiny absolute max current per port is 40mA, and I feel 28mA is far enough to be safe. It's also just a short pulse to latch the relay, not a continuous load, so there's no overheating. I haven't had any field failures. Come to think of it, the...

Try getting rid of R7 and C4 and see if it still clips.

FWIW, I once rehoused a Bass Rockman in a pedal. Pretty tight fit, and I couldn't get the little DC-DC converters far away from the analog circuitry to completely avoid switching noises interfering with the audio (and the chorus clock!!). I just gave up and used a linear +/-6V wall wart...

Suggestion: this is a great dbx/THAT one-knob compressor using currently available parts. Basically a modern dbx163. Maybe you'd want to make a PCB for it? https://www.thatcorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Pedal-05-4316-Battery-Powered-One-Knob-Squeezer.pdf (this design note is a real gem)...