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This is cool. It is an automatic temperature control that puts the Germ Transistor to a specific operating temperature. The effect is more consistent sonic results. I have heard of another system like this in a different fuzz.

Oh wait.. the DanDrive is a version of the "Cesar Diaz Texas Square Face" which is an added/modified circuit to one of SRV's dead Fuzz Faces... That's why it cost so much... sold link of a Texas Square Face: https://reverb.com/item/26256713-cesar-diaz-texas-square-face-fuzz-original-guitar-pedal

Who is Dan and what does he Drive?

I'll take a look again at JLCPCB. I have been meaning to use them to make a faceplate for my Bassman amp. Thanks all.

I am in the middle of designing my BluesBreaker and curious where is everyone sending there files to get pcb boards fabbed. My design is currently mapped out in Kicad.

I am just guessing but I believe this is how rectifiers work. For example, in Tube Amps you have Line In wall voltage. The rectifier filters out the AC and leaves the DC. Are you thinking having AC voltage mixed in for a bigger sound? I think AC would blow up an effects circuit by it's 'wild'...

@Betty Wont I noticed this when I was trying to source a 22K pot that certain parts used in the OG Bluesbreaker pedal (and reissue) are European specific parts. This seems to be another one that disappeared from this side of the world because it is considered obsolete.

Oh my this is a wild rabbit hole. Thanks again!

Holy crap Betty! That was quick! I had to google pick-and-place machines! I do have a ceramic replacement ready, but do you know where to find these specific ones? Now I am just curious.

Does anyone know what these capacitors are called or where to source them? I am making a bluesbreaker pcb and I am very curious about where Marshall even got these in 2022. The value is 10pF and I believe it is film. Other boards use a poly film in place of it. The tolerance is 5% so maybe...

Check the DC Jack as well. It looks crooked...

(edit: also the above post lol) I haven't seen a pdf version but this post has a link to the Tayda drill template for a 1590XX and I think I saw some other threads of how to translate the measurements of the Tayda drill template somewhere...

In your specific case I would hand draw the templates, valid the template, take measurements, scan in your template, use software like coreldraw to "trace" the drawing and adjust measurements as needed. Alternatively you could use cad software like mentioned to make it without the "tracing"...

I may have to look into that. My DMM just died this weekend and I am looking for a new one.

What is everyone using to measure the Vf of Germ Diodes?

Is that the whole kliche on the protoboard?

I kinda wanna do that. I have been collecting a few different diodes, but I am wondering how much hassle it will be. I may just end up with 1n34a's in there anyway. Did you fab up the board?

About to start my klone build (tonegeek one). How many permanently installed their "magic" diodes? I am considering putting pins to hot swap them in the future.

How early? Corel 4 and 8? That is very suprising!

Oh my god! I was plugging the In in the Out and the Out in In!!! Works now...