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Thanks for this! I've learned something tonight. Gonna give it a shot. Have you tried the mod to remove C5 for more gain before breakup on the drive knob?

John K suggested changing C6 and C8 to 100n

This one is even better: https://rc-calculator.glitch.me/ I'm just not sure what frequency I'm looking for here. Any thoughts?

Thanks @giovanni! I know nothing, but I did find this corner frequency calculator: https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/cutoff-frequency#how-to-use-the-cutoff-frequency-calculator When I plug in the cap and resistor values... what cuff frequency am I looking for?

That makes sense... I'm not interested in making it work for guitar, only bass... so totally not worried about tweaking it. I changed the coupling caps on my muff, so maybe I'll just go that route here to make it more useable. Do I need to change the resistors that follow?

I built the SOB a year ago, but it's just not getting a lot of use on my bass board as it cuts too much bass frequency. Would changing C1 to 1UF be enough? It's currently 100n. https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/SOBPreamp-PedalPCB.pdf EDIT: I ended up switching out C6 and C8 for 330n (what I...

Bumping this. Going to give that bass mod a go soon. Anyone tried it?

sweet build. I'd like to check that one out.

I honestly couldn't get the tone to change all that much, but it might have been user error as much as anything. Still, I will say that it took me a while to appreciate the Plumes, but I feel that it may be a situation where it's not so much that it cuts the lows as much as it boosts the mids...

I'm not sure why, but I couldn't make this work... it was kind of a half ass strategy anyway. That said, I've come to appreciate my plumes more lately. It's a fine standalone OD that does lose a little low end. However, I'm finding that it's really good as a sweetener before a muff. Really gives...

I would think that the J Mascis Fuzz would be too fuzzy and not have enough low end... but I haven't tried one myself! https://tymguitars.com.au/products/tym-fuzz-munchkin?variant=39270489555007 Here's a board of it: https://www.deadendfx.com/product/trible Build doc...

Next level, man. Really impressive.

Also, socket the clipping diodes and try some things out. There are a lot of different variations: No diodes in first stage: more bass, but may be too much LED's in both stages: more of a fuzz/hoof sound. Different color LED's clip differently. Red clip quickest with the least amount of...

Replace the 100n coupling caps with 220n caps and the 100n clipping caps with 47n caps. This will give you more bass and the fuzz will be a little more saturated and not just on the top end. To figure out what the coupling and clipping caps are, check out this page and compare the schematic to...

Just added Green LED's to the 2nd stage and a pair of red LED's to the first. Sounds way better than no LEDs :) I'm going to try yellow LED's in the first stage tonight. I used those on another muff and liked the sound over other colors I had on hand.

Played this with a band tonight and just couldn’t get it to sound right. Too boomy and not a rich enough fuzz. Might need to add clipping back in.

The Mutt that might be even better than the Woof.

I'm calling this take on the Hoof/Muff... the Woof And I'm sure that after all of these mods it doesn't sound like a muff is "supposed to," but it's a great OD/Fuzz for bass and that's all I care about. I also have a Wren and Cuff Russian on my board to cover more traditional muff sounds.

I like to have a lot of options, switches, etc... but I really listened and liked the no diodes option. Surprised me somewhat as well.

What does the clipping on the last stage? Is it the q1 transistor?