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I doubt it was the alcohol, it evaporates really quickly. Status LEDs should be really easy to troubleshoot, there's not much that can go wrong. Take a look at this part of the schematic: Check C100, R100, R101 and R102. Check you're getting voltage through D100 Check the joints, could be a...

You do occasionally get LEDs with the legs flipped around. I've got myself into the habit of checking them with a DMM every time, just in case.

I'm not an expert by any means, but this is my understanding. Happy for people more knowledgeable to chime in. You can supply a circuit with 18 V when the components allow for it. Each component will have a maximum voltage that it can handle. Electrolytic capacitors generally have a much...

It worked! No problems at all, it's a nice surprise. I got this one if you're interested: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32956272063.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.678b5accseK9Xh

Glad you got it working!

Living in Australia the postage from smallbear of LMS for 1 or 2 switches is insanely expensive. I've had really good success cracking open an type 1 and flipping the rocker for the middle pins 180 degrees. BOOM! Type 2 switch.

Your best bet would probably be going through the circuit with an audio probe to find where the volume drop occurs to isolate your issue. Could be as simple as an incorrect resistor.

Good to hear you got this working! I've built a few of these and always get the best results with isolated jacks just like ADAOCE's picture above.

Were there any volume issues when your first finished it?

I ended up rolling the dice and buying one from aliexpress that someone else on here mentioned having success with. Hasn't arrived yet but I'll update once it comes. From memory the 4305 needs a few more external components (2 op amps I think?) but will do the job. An adapter board or new...

No worries! That's a polarity protection diode, it's there to make sure if you accidentally plug it into a centre positive power supply. You could also solder your 9V cable to the top, but it'll be easier and cleaner on the bottom. I took a look at the schematic and saw that the only...

Doesn't look salvageable, but don't stress! You can solder a wire to the underside of this pad instead.

Nice work! Volume drop with clipping is totally normal. You're literally cutting off (clipping) the extremities of the waveform so it crunchier, but because you've effectively removed some of the signal the volume is lower.

Sounds like an incorrect component value, like using 100K when it should be 100R. But if you've already verified components your next step is to probe. Good luck!

Nope, this will just ground your signal. You'll need to get it off and reinstall it correctly. If you don't mind destroying the jack you can try clipping the pins off and then desoldering one at a time.

Instead of the AD712 you could go for the OPA2134 which is available from Tayda. These are both hifi dual opamps with the same pinout. For the 1N34A, any germanium diode will work. In fact, you could get away with a silicon diode, but it could make a little change your tone. If you want to...

No worries, enjoy! 🤙

Oh! And always always always use sockets for IC's, otherwise they're a huge pain to remove if they need to be replaced. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/8-pin-dip-ic-socket-machine-tooled.html

For pots, it's really up to you and depends on the knobs you plan to use. Just be sure that they have PCB pins rather than solder lugs. You'll want either solid shaft or spline shaft depending on your knobs. Solid shaft -...

As for IC's and diodes, just search for those parts on Tayda's website and you'll find what you're looking for. Just be aware that you'll need through-hole varieties of these parts. TL072 - https://www.taydaelectronics.com/tl072-low-noise-j-fet-dual-op-amp-ic.html LT1054 -...