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Metal film or carbon film will both work, the only difference is tolerance. Metal film will be 1% tolerance, carbon film will be 5%. For capacitors, these will come in different packages based on value. For most picofarad values (pF), you can use ceramic or MLCC. For most nanofarad (nF), use...

I've always bought that style from tayda and only had 1 fail. They're a little tight at first, but always loosen up.

I'm currently building a Muzzle with SMD THAT4301, and plan to build more in the future. It's a wicked circuit! That being said (no pun intended), the THAT4301, particularly in an SMD package, seems to getting harder to find and prices are starting to become silly. In Australia it'll cost close...

I've used them a few times but they always feel like more effort then they're worth. Wiring up a 3PDT is a breeze so I don't see the point unless it's relay bypass

Super tidy, gotta be happy with that.

Looks fantastic! Is that the Tayda UV printing?

Good luck! Let us know how you go, I feel like boost into distortion would make it way more interesting.

It's definitely a possibility, but worth giving a shot! Seems like a pretty easy and reversible mod, so if the octave isn't playing nice you can always change it back to stock. Otherwise you could add in a switch to bypass the octave just like the full size version

Like this - excuse the poor illustration haha

I actually think this would work - the boost is an entirely separate circuit. However, I think you'll need to swap these:

No worries, good luck!

Longer leads always have the chance to introduce noise. I'd replace them if you can, caps are cheap and it'll make the build way easier. Depending on what voltage the circuit runs at, 25-30v should be perfect. Be careful, the higher the voltage the bigger your components will be.

Another sneaky trick you can do is to solder 1uF cap as normal and clip the leads. Then on the other side of the board, solder your 470n to the leads you just clipped. Ba da bing ba da boom - the extra parallel cap is totally hidden. Also, if you're looking for an easy switchable phase...

Here in Australia 1.5uF electrolytic caps are available at an electronics chain called Jaycar. I made sure to stock up while they still have them!

Wonder Drive would be great for pushing an amp. Otherwise you can build an Amptweaker Tight Metal on vero. That circuit is the business.

Do you have any others that you can wire in series or parallel to get you closer? A 2.2M and 560k resistor in series will give you 2.76M for instance.

That's a really neat idea! Might have to try it out on mine.

Strictly speaking I don't think there's actually any signal going to the pot, but it should still have the same effect.

Doesn't look like the schematic has been posted, but it should be as easy as using a momentary switch to short the feedback pot.

Congrats on the build! I've found that it takes a little finesse to get it to self oscillate, only seems to want to do it with certain head combinations. I can't remember off the top of my head, but maybe someone else might be able to chime in.