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Looks fantastic, nice work!

Yep, sounds like you've got a momentary switch instead of a latching switch. Best to check what you actually ordered and confirm. Unfortunately this means you probably won't be able to remove and re-use the 3PDT pcb's, unless you don't mind destroying the switch and removing pins individually.

Enjoy! I've just finished putting one together and this thing is absolutely monstrous! I was going to sell it, but I think this one might stay on my board ;)

It looks like your jacks are wired backwards.

From PedalPCB on another thread: Duration - Similar to reverb "dwell" Disperse - Behaves like a pre-delay, but also controls the rate of regeneration from the Deflect control Diminish - Dampens the reverberations (like a tone control) Density - Master clock frequency Deflect - Controls amount...

I also find the lumberg style jacks to be quite tight at first, you need to be quite firm with them. But they loosen up over time.

You could always DIY from a sheet of acrylic.

Love the gold on gold look!

Nice work! That's a great looking pedal.

Woops! My bad! Yep, you don't want momentary for this.

Hey there, welcome! You need an on-off-on DPDT. These board will fit solder lugs on switches, so your best bet is something like this: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/momentary-mini-toggle-switch-dpdt-on-off-on.html

I've never been able to get one of these out without breaking it. Maybe I'm just impatient!

Yep, if running in parallel just treat them as individuals and use whatever you'd normally use for your CLR's.

You can use this to calculate what resistance to use. Just be aware that this assumes they're running in series. http://ledcalc.com/

The mining of tantalum, mostly in the Democratic Republic of Congo, is questionable from an ethical perspective. The people who work in these mines are often doing so under military duress and in incredibly poor conditions. If you're going to use tantalum, do some research to find out how it's...

I've just bought a few Deflector PCBs, any chance I can grab the build docs or parts list so I can get parts while the boards are shipping? Cheers!

That's a tidy vero build! Nice work!

Keen!

I spent $11 on a legit CA3080 for mine, which is pricey, but nice to know it is what it says it is. You can also try to find LM3080 or NTE996 which should also work.

Do you have an audio probe? I'd recommend following the signal with the schematic to see where it drops out.