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Sounds like you really need to double check all the resistors to make sure they are all the correct values in the right spots. Did you measure them before soldering them in? I would also take the above advice and revisit your soldering. Cold/bad joints are a common problem

Switch orientation doesn't matter as long as it's not sideways, so yours should be fine (but soldering your connections properly does matter, so check those again, as it seems messy). As for the jacks, T = Tip, S = Sleeve (this is also ground in this case). To be honest, It's difficult to help...

I wouldn't just flip transistors around, as that's a good way to fry stuff (but to be fair I've never fried a 2N3904). Instead, if you don't trust the symbol on the board, you could look up the pin out of the transistor and match it to the schematic in the build doc. Personally, I would start...

Not using a socket would only cause issues if it's a sensitive transistor that got overheated while soldering, but in my experience the 2n3904 is pretty hardy. I would focus more on your overall soldering and clarify the above IC issue first

Yeah, it's a tricky build with all the board mounted switches, etc. Probably why I haven't bothered with my other board yet! What do you mean you broke off the IC chip? Does that mean one of the pins came off the chip itself or something with the socket (looks like they are all in sockets...

The washer should go on the outside with the nut, but that won't cause any problems. If moving those jacks around does something I would suspect the wiring connections aren't soldered properly. To be honest, it does look like the overall soldering could use some care, but that comes with...

Would you believe I forgot I actually bought an extra Arcadiator board and just haven't built it yet? I was able to confirm there is continuity between the two 9V connections on the board, so you're all good there.

Hmm. I guess I'm missing the obvious that I should be running these in stereo on something while I have both! Time for some fun experiments

Personally, I would at least put a piece of card stock or electrical tape or something between the back of the pots and the board. Non-covered pots shorting against the board is a common issue in support threads, for sure. As for using your multimeter in continuity test mode it's pretty simple...

Ok, great. A few things: - In the second picture of the board, it looks like a few of those offboard wiring connections may not actually be soldered in---are they? - Those pots look to have no shielding on the backs of them (sometimes called pot-condoms or dust seals)---is it touching any of...

Otherwise I would recommend posting a photo of the bottom side of the board too, so we can see the solder joints, etc. Could be a bridge somewhere

Hmm. It could be the way you've got your power wired. Do you have a multimeter to measure voltage and check continuity? See the empty 9v and Ground contacts you have at the top of the board? I'm curious if you need to connect those to power/ground or of the switch connections are enough on this...

Yeah, the blue part marked "input trim" on the board. You can adjust it with a small screw driver and should hear a difference as you play around on the guitar

I built one of these for someone else ages ago, but don't recall much now. From the doc it looks like it affects the glitchiness of the signal, so you'd want to strum the guitar and turn the trimpot until you feel it's set where you like it:

Had this board half populated for ages, but finally got around to finishing it up this week. First off, thanks to all those intrepid souls who built theirs first, as that's what helped me feel good about making sure I had the right caps and standoffs. Also thanks to our (hopefully temporarily)...

Dumb question, but I assume you've already adjusted the input trimpot for max volume?

I picked up a used drill press for next to nothing years ago, when I really didn't have the space for it, but am so glad I've kept it alive. These days I eyeball the markings (unless it's a complex pedal or something I can easily use one of the PedalPCB guides for), use a center punch then a...

Great job (especially persevering after the first attempt---many folks would have given up then and there)! Excellent sounding pedal, too

Nice job! I can't count the amount of times I've been confused by a non-working pedal only to realize I hadn't put the ICs in, so welcome to the club. Drilling is something I still find stressful too

@owlexifry this won't make you feel any better, but I've also got a Deflector with huge noise issues (sounds fine for the first few minutes of playing, then gets all intermittent and full of static). I've had to leave in the "fail pile" for a few years now, as it frustrated me too much (this was...