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Just in case this wasn't obvious, you want to run your power in to there regardless of battery or plug. Your reverse polarity diode and LED are both coming off of it.

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/servo-fuzz-face.8257/ https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/new-mini-breadboard.8114/ @Chuck D. Bones has a couple very interesting threads of a similar concept for a germanium fuzz face that's definitely worth a read

I've never done anything quite like this for regulating the power supply down like that, but I do have some insight on the pt2399 using a voltage regulator instead of a divider. The PT2399 is pretty sensitive to voltage changes, it causes the repeats to warble or change pitch. Some designs use...

In this case the 1k ohm resistor and the 1.5nF cap are creating a low pass filter, so everything above a certain frequency is filtered. I assume this is to deal with oscillation or radio interference because its well above the audible range. You may not even notice a difference in sound by...

Make sure your wires, specifically input are well away from the board where they could pick up anything. Sometimes a buffer in front of a pedal can help with oscillation, but sometimes it's just the circuit or layout doesn't take the extra gain well.

I'd say the Danae is more timmy adjacent than tube screamer. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/dwarvenhammer/ How do you use the TS? If its to boost and tighten things up you might like this take on it its a bufferless TS with a rotary switch to change the filter for the bass cut on the...

If you're using it as a boost or to tighten up your amp then I found I preferred the additional headroom from LEDs so you get more boost and less of the grit, which I found undesirable for my tight metal sound personally. At the highest setting you're cutting everything below 4.8khz so I'm not...

Glad to hear it's going great. The gold finish really pops on it! The context is really important for what potentiometer is needed for a circuit. If you are only getting action in the last few bits of the pot then you may want a C taper pot, where the halfway point on the pot is 85-90% through...

Didn't know you posted here, your homework series is rad.

Wow, you've really outdone yourself with this one. It doesn't look quite like anything i've seen on that market, which I think is an accomplishment given how many builders there are these days.

It looks like your 9v and gnd are connected? I'm not sure where, but I'd double check for that.

I've only used oshpark, and I was happy with the results, I only use it for smaller stuff though. I don't know if its good for larger runs of stuff though.

I haven't built this project, but I do know oscillation can happen if you have the wires too close to each other or components sometimes, I'd see if the noise changes from moving wires around.

That firebird is sweet! I appreciate the demo, great playing as always. I really dig the wah tones you were getting especially. Super interesting circuit, it looks like a typical PT2399 job until you get to the IC. I took a look at the IC datasheet and I wonder how far off it is from a PT2399...

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/seabed-delay-2-w-modulation-mad-professor-deep-blue-delay.15675 Check out @MichaelW 's build for modulation, there is a pretty simple hack you can do to get some effects going.

Yeah, nothing stupid about this idea at all. Personally if I were doing it I'd jumper the on board diodes and then run the wires from the rotary switch to the original switch pads because they are a bit more beefy, just keep in mind where the wires are going so you don't introduce noise by them...

Just to clarify, I meant to just jumper the pads on the switch for the capacitor so that when the switch is on in either position you're getting the 220nf value. I second Feral Feline's suggestion to trim it up if you're happy with the sound of that value.

I believe you need to find the pads that don't correspond to anything. Either the top or bottom pads on the switch will connect to the 360 ohm resistor and 220n capacitor, then the other will connect to nothing. What I'd personally do is solder the added components right to the unused switch...

Those are sick, I really like the raw enclosure with the stamped labels. Are these based on combos that worked on your board?

The switch on the tommy is functionally an on-off switch, switching in a 360 ohm resistor in parallel to increase the gain, and a 220nf capacitor to add bass back in because the 360r resistor changes the filter. With the bass pot on maximum the timmy really doesn't lose much bass in the lower...