Search results

Got any clips of JC Maillet's Super Full Wave Octaver? Your description of it sounds very intriguing.

How are the voltages looking on IC2 (the IC near the mid control at the top)? I'd first check around that IC and then if that's good I'd check for continuity from mid pin 1 to IC2 pin 1 and I'd check if you have 22k ohms from mid pin 3 to pin 2 of IC2 to make sure all of those connections are good.

Sounds like it added some grit and compression.

I don't have any idea how it actually works, but I can guess it's not far off from a harmonic tremolo, but instead of swapping filters its just swapping pickups. It gives parameters of 0.4hz to 12hz for the speed, so that's what you need your LFO to do. I'd do the switching for the pickups...

That makes a lot of sense, wouldn't want to mix them together if there was a bad batch from one supplier, but I think it's more likely that it's a big conspiracy or coverup for something... Glad I could give back to the community with my experiment. The upfront cost stung, but it was worth it.

I was adding a 4558 to my cart on tayda on my last order and I noticed there were 3 of seemingly the same part, so I had to order all of them. I don’t have any equipment fancy enough to test their limits, but I do have one of those fancy camera phones so I did take pictures. I’d love to know if...

The LED blinking could be a short tripping the protection in your power supply, I had it happen on a pedal and it turned out to be a tiny stray wire causing my power supply to do this. I’d see if you have a short to ground by checking continuity to ground on both sides of the protection diode.

The tolerance of most pots being +/- 20% makes this a difficult guess to make. How are you doing your graphic? I'm thinking If you can put a knob on your actual pot, set it to the desired resistance and then recreate that position on your graphic might be the most accurate way.

but what if this ones different, only one way to find out!

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/JFE2140DR/15666863 Looks like digikey has the dual now, at $4.61 I guess you're saving money if you need more than one haha. Looking at the datasheets I noticed the transconductance is much higher than a j201 on the new jfets, my...

9 days is quite the long vacation for you! Post drive bass boost is a pretty interesting idea, the boss blues driver does this too. I saw another sale at smallbear but when I looked at these enclosures they are back up at $7, which given your review of them I'd rather just get some from tayda.

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/building-a-big-dummy-box-schmorg.8747/ Time to schmorg.

My deep blue delay was one of my favorites. Mines also vero and has served me well. I love the enclosure with those sliders, looks ridiculous in the good way haha.

Only the newer hand wired 808 is true bypass, the standard ones were jfet switching. I think bad parts tolerances are the major contributors to differences in comparisons, when a pot is 20% either way it’s hard to have good comparisons.

Wow this came out great. Thats an intense looking build. Did you do the enclosure up yourself? I love those chickenhead knobs for the heads!

There are 2 differences in resistor values, and arguably two more differences in diodes and op amps. The TS808 had MA150 diodes and usually JRC4558D/RC4558P, the TS9 I believe usually has 1S1588 diodes and a few different op amps, but I associate the TA75558P with it. The forward voltage...

It almost seems a bit backwards! How is having it all being packed in a barely labeled box less discrete than having your transistors all flapping around for the world to see?

I appreciate the detailed write up! I think those resistors look pretty cool alternating like that. Is there a reason the caps you added go from pin 1-8? Wouldn’t 4-8 be the power rails and pin 1 be the first op amp output?

I can't find any mention of a cesar diaz overdrive circuit on the internet. It has all the parts of a tube screamer as Robert said. You could get all the resistors and some of the caps in place if you worked out their values, but I think you'll find a ts9/808 with a few values changed and not...

The power situation is an interesting hurdle, I'm not sure the best way to supply the +/- 15v from the schematic, maybe +18/-9 from a LT1054 and rework it for a +4.5v vref?