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Using a booster in front of your favorite drive pedal is great.

Next guess would be bad cap. Try audio probing through the circuit to find out where the noise starts.

Maybe power supply. Is your breadboard one of the PPCB ones with the power filtering?

Thanks everyone! Yes, I cured everything at 225 F after I applied the label. I used a white Sharpie paint marker. Blocked in white on the printed no-film label first, let it dry for a few hours. Then applied the no-film label as usual with the glue -> hairdryer -> curing.

Love to see yours, too Also, numbers wise, I can't beat you :cool:

Yeah, you don't have to be too careful, just color in the lines. You can see where I F-ed up a bit by the ribcage and pelvis. Just color and let dry and then apply like a regular no-film.

I forget if the gold foil is reverse image. If so, you should try some black or white behind it.

That's exactly what I said after I laid it down :ROFLMAO: Worked way better than I thought it would.

A different flavor of flanger, for sure. It's in the BF-2 camp but to my ears, sounds like the odd harmonic setting on a A/DA flange. I still want to wrap my head around the depth and clock trimmers. There were lots of variation in sound available by playing with those. MB's flanger magic...

This thing shreds! I dig it. The tone controls work, but if you're not a fan of the base sound they don't take very far away from that. No film Mr. Krueger on a bare box.

I bought a boatload from Tayda expecting to pitch the bad ones, but they have all been fine so far. I also bought a few from small bear and have auditioned both varieties in delay circuits. I didn't notice much of a difference between the SB and the Tayda variety. The 2399s start to give you...

Start with a continuity check on the switch lugs. I'd put my money on that switch being bad.

That's Badass! Chris, got me to build a dizzy, too :cool:

Awesome, man! Great build.

I've been planning to attend for the last few years. I have friends with music shop connections that always say they'll get me in but it never works out. I'd be interested in a badge if history repeats.

GD, those look sharp! Love the shared aesthetic. Also, I need that Betty Wont sticker in the background :cool:

Thanks Dan! Strong work on this :cool:

I was searching for the differences between DM-2 and DM-3 but there seems to be a bunch of garbage info out there. Besides the 3205 what are the differences? Also, did the original DM-3 have 2 3205s?

Maximum Badassatude!

This is cool info, thank you. I've had some recent trouble subbing higher end opamps in chorus circuits designed around 4558 and not taking into account the different power requirements. Looking forward to part 2.