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The parallel 4001 is just old school. How often were they managing to plug batteries in wrong way around? It’ll work if you accidentally plug the wrong polarity in—for a moment. Won’t be long until it cooks and ain’t protecting shit. Series schottkey can handle way more amperage than necessary...

So a drum contest.

Oh. Whoa.

You reap what you sow, Bob

Allow me to start a brainstorm: what kind of contests have y’all done? A cursory search up top shows some straight giveaways, a design challenge, and a raffle. Alt (any) others?

Me too. I feel like I’m learning something here

I love this thread! Of all the pedalometry I’ve managed to learn myself over the years, I still can’t hardly get my head around multi-pole switches. I think I have switchlexia

I gotta know about this too. All my 4301s were boosted in a garage robbery over the winter

What a beauty. I want to bodge mine into a psychtar once I get hold of some darlington’s

What is the correct range?

Solid core for clean lines that stay in place, classic zipties, some slick board mounted wire clips? I’m on the lookout for some old cool zebra telephone wire to weave up a wiring loom with one long-ass wire sewing them all up like an old switchboard or organ on my next unwieldy tagboard build

Bottom diagram. 3, 6,10 are your inputs

CD4007 is three. Quieter too

Say more. I too would like to metalearn from its doofussery.

I’m curious whether we can get it to play nice with the stonedeaf tone circuit

Don’t forget to substitute R6, R8, C4

What really causes switch pop Love this article. Hilarious

All hail the mechanical footswitch. I am not a fan of all the extra parts and extra cost of relays, controllers, optocouplers, &c. And to be honest I am a fan of the snap of a good stomp. It’s a sound we can all recognize in our sleep. AND the more we use them the better coat and quality can...

I guess I gotta build another rat 🤷

I’m very curious. Datasheet shows 1.8-5.5v supply