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Dumb question, but, I assume Op is site owner and Op is working to "decode" a pedal in order to make a PCB (that we can buy and build). Part of the process is to de-goop whatever components have to be decoded in order to make the PCB? I only know the KLON guy dumped a bunch of black crap all...

Thanks guys! PedalPcb customer for life, haha. This forum is amazing for help and support.

Whoops. Yes. I meant 16 pin, I edited. And yes I would like to use a single 16 pin socket in the pic across the 2x 8 pin IC areas for a cleaner look. Glad to know this is legal.

Fellow nerds. Is it ok to use a single 16 pin IC socket across two adjacent 8 pin "banks" as long as I am sure to slot the TL072 and the TC1044SCPA IC's in the correct notch orientation?

Tone and sound is subjective to all, but I am nerdily curious if anyone has ever gone through the exercise of building 2 identical kits and one kit you went baseline Tayda, 1 penny stuff, and another using "expensive" caps and other parts and compared. I would think the main difference would be...

Thank you. I need to do a lot of reading and learning. I think the Tayda service is totally the way to go instead of my trying other amateur methods at home, although i gotta say the rubber stamp and clear coat look really good if done well!

I guess the question is why was the PCB itself not beeping/continuity from SW to LED K... Very interesting. Thanks again for the amazing help, sir. Because of the forum and the help provided, I will buy all of my PCB's from this site exclusively. On that note, USPS delivered board #3 to...

That looks great, man. What are the LED rings on the stomp buttons? Do you have a guide on how you prepare your stuff for Tayda?

THANK YOU MAN!!!!!!!

yet ANOTHER pedal fixed by the WIZARDS on this forum. A M A Z I N G !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just wow wow wow you guys are GOOOOOOOOOOOOD

I made a CANDY CANE hook end out of a SMALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL piece of bare wire, SOMEHOW used tweezers and my stew mac tools, SOMEHOW got it in there, somehow soldered it. Keep in mind, I have this PCB and switch DIRECTLY on top of the PCB. This is not an easy access. That was like MICRO...

this will be a very tricky feat with liam neeson level skills.. attempting this now.

This makes ALL the sense now, ha. SW on PCB to LED K, no beep. 3PDT lug 4 to SW pad on PCB, BEEP. 3PDT lug 5 to ground, BEEP. (in both modes) In effects mode, 4 and 5 BEEP. When not in effects mode, 4 and 5 no beep. For sure it is SW PAD on PCB to LED K no beep! Amazing way to deduce...

Reading now, had to leave for a bit. I get no beep from SW on PCB to K of LED. Since this is not beeping, do I need to do a direct jumper from K pad to SW? Or can I jumper from pcb breakout SW direct to K of LED? "do 3PDT lugs 4 and 5 have continuity in effects mode?" YES, they do. I don't...

LUG 4 has continuity with SW on the PCB breakout board and on the main PCB itself. SW on PCB breakout (which is on top of footswitch) does NOT have continuity to the K PAD of the LED. (Or the A pad of it). In either clicked position.

Having a hard time following. Every line you drew should beep with continuity? Does this go 123 456 789 ? SW to K pad of LED does NOT BEEP.

I am using PedalPCB breakout board though.

OK! GOT MY OP AMPS. Slotted em, PEDAL IS WORKING. HAVE SOUND FROM PEDAL WITH OP AMPS NOW. However, still no LED. WIll try this next: So you could be correct with it being the 3PDT connections check your SW and GND pads maybe just reflow them both ends You can continuity check from SW and...

Yes. 100% absolutely the LED is wired right and I know LED is good bc I tested with cr2032 coin batt. Completely rewired it and have it in a bezel now.

Beginning to suspect stomp switch possibly. What can I do in order to test it? I have it soldered to a PCB I/O board.