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You could try the micro amp plus board. I'm not sure if it's the same amount of boost total as the original, but it does have the added treble and bass controls that you can use (or ignore).

That looks awesome! The Riot is tied with the Turbo Rat for my favorite distortion pedal.

I grabbed some headphones and I can hear that kind of fizz. It almost sounds like a rippling wave, but it's so faint.

Maybe it's the computer speakers. I generally have decent high frequency hearing for my age (I think).

I relistened a couple times and I can't hear anything that sounds off?

I like the taper of a linear pot for the Filter control. It just feels more usable to me. If I'm only using the regular silicon clipping diodes I like having a linear pot for the volume control too. If I'm using red LEDs instead of silicon diodes for clipping the logarithmic volume pot is fine.

As far as the 125b drill templates go, I compare the pcb holes up with my drill template/jig and just go off that. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/125b-drill-template/ $25 seemed like a lot for a template when I was considering whether or not to bother with it, but it's been well worth it to me.

Damn. That sucks. For me that was a big factor in buying enclosures from Tayda instead of Stompbox Parts or Love My Switches.

Nice build! I've switched to only using outies now. It's just easier and I don't have time to make my life even just a little bit harder than it needs to be. I was using those little Tayda jacks without the extra switching lug, but they always come loose. I started adding an extra nut on the...

I have a couple 4049ube chips I bought to play around with that I need to throw on a breadboard. Might finally tackle it tomorrow because I'm still fiddling with some distortion circuit on the "spare" breadboard.

How do you calculate the gain in the stages that don't have an input resistor? That's something I never understood about the Red Llama with its similar setup. The UA1 should have 6.66~ gain (220k/33k=6.66~) I'm assuming, but what about UE1?

The Rook is a soft clipping gain stage followed by an active baxandall tone stack. The Timmy has a cap blend in the soft clipping stage to control the low end in the clipping with a simple low pass filter afterwards. I actually have a Rook/Bastion pcb I never got around to finishing. Once I get...

Anytime I see or hear about a cap blowing, I think of this:

Timmy. I'm surprised nobody suggested it yet.

If you're not getting signal in the middle position it'll have to be the C1 cap. The little bit of noise is just some signal crosstalk from the other traces I'd guess.

Very similar to an OCD with a couple added/tweaked parts.

So did you replace the 100k to ground with a 10k and that stopped the popping?

On my first enclosure I didn't sand at all and on the next one I sanded with 300 grit I think and I couldn't tell any difference. Don't hesitate to give it a nice heavy coat without going heavy enough that you get runs. It makes the hammer effect more prominent I think.

The paint I mentioned from O'Reillys is Dupli-Color Perfect Match. They have clear coat and a bunch of different colors to match up with difference car manufacturers...

I don't mess with enamel. It never really cures or dries in my experience. You can get decent acrylic lacquer from O'Reillys or Autozone if you want to use spray cans. I've used hammertone paint on a few enclosures. I can't remember which brand, but I can find the can later. It takes a little...