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The three prong jack is a switching mechanism. When the DC barrel is inserted, it mechanically disconnects the two positivine prongs. I.e., if you have a battery's positive lead at the center prong, with no DC barrel inserted, that lead flows to the other prong and into your circuit. When...

Awesome build, Chris! I have this one in my queue, too. :cool: Is the 1k resister wired into the switch path with your mod? I.e., what are the two states of R11: no resister (shorted) and 1k or shorted and jumped? Also, I was wondering if there is a volume difference between octave on...

That's awesome! The design is really smart. I think you could sell a few of these if you wanted.

Badass, dude!

It was hard to stay still during the pic, that's why it looks grainy. Not sure how useful the Glow in the Dark is, doesn't really work unless you put it in the sun. I had to wait till today for the pic to work. Probably look cool on stage if there was a black light.

Actually, really like it. I'm being forced to switch to guitar from bass in my band and it's going on my board. I have to hear it with drums and bass under, but I'm excited to have something unique. Thanks for the PIFage, BTW, you rule! 😎 @Feral Feline, going to post a pic of the glow soon...

I'm always unenthusiastic when I start building drives but usually ends up being some of my most satisfying builds. 🤷‍♂️ A couple of MBP drives. The first is the Mysterioso, sort of a super Red Lama with two channels. Red Lama, is not really my jam, but I like the options on this one. The...

So good!

Badass

I was wondering: has anyone ever implemented an exponential converter in a chorus LFO?

This is my experience, too. I usually clean the excess glue on the sides with IPA and then used a swab to get the bulk of the glue out from the negative space. Finally, as you said, a full pass over the graphic. Sometimes the graphic comes off though. Now a days I skip this with color powder...

Looks great! We are on the same wavelength with a lot of the no-film stuff :cool: I've done polished boxes before. The no-film is more delicate. You did a smart thing keeping the graphics away from the nuts, that's the most common point for scrape-age. Mine seem to have stayed shinny over...

That's weird, but awesome! Maybe a loose IC?

If you wanted to see the voltages, check out the build doc for the MadBean Porkbarrel, but remember the bias pin effects everything tied to VB, so they might look different depending on where your trim is set.

Did you measure the voltages on the pins or on the socket? Wondering if the clock might not be making contact with the socket.

That's a bummer. Don't suppose you have another 3101 laying around? You could also change the jumpers and try a 3201/3207 set if you have that?

Those might look better if the bias is set more towards the center. The BBD Bias sets the reference voltage for the 4558 too. Does your DMM have a frequency function? If so, check pins 2 and 6 of the BBD to check if your clock is working. You should measure ~35kHz.

My bet would be a foot switch or wiring problem. I'd check continuity from your input/output tips to the board point. Also from input/output tips the ins and outs of the PCB in the on position. Then test continuity between the FS pins in both positions. The LED not lighting up is constant with...

I'd recommend an OD or distortion circuit for your first build. Fuzzes are all about the transistors and there are some caveats that you need to consider. You can easily make a fuzz but making a good fuzz isn't so easy.

That's a beaut! I curious about this one, too. I'm always reluctant to build another drive pedal, but when I think about it, whenever I've found a new one I like, they've been some of my most satisfying builds :cool: