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With the 2N5457 (don't have the -58 model) the drain current is 45uA-165uA, and with the J201 it falls to 15uA-130uA. So, not zero but close. I'll order the right JFET as I also need to order a Op07. I looked at using the TL071 (which I have) but noticed the different slew rate raises the peak...

I've just modelled the Rat in LTSpice to learn about the circuit before I build it. I noticed that the distortion pot seems way too big as you are clipping the op amp before you get close to half travel even on a 100k log pot (~10k). So I think you are right. Of course the diodes then clip...

Revisiting this pedal as I've made a lot of others since and it got bumped off my pedalboard pretty fast because a) it doesn't sound as good as my Ge rangemaster clone and b) it always sounds too bright no matter what I do with the Range control. Because it's a treble booster I guess... So this...

Gone - back to the folder from whence it came...

Ha yes my mousemanship lacks also...

The pedalpcb board for this one is tight - use 5mm resistors if you have them, else you'll be standing them on end. The JFETS require a mounting board as the pcb doesnt have a surface mount option. I had a batch of JFETS I'd graded for the Chop Shop build so was able to find two matched pairs...

Yes, especially the two across the + / - inputs to the op-amp. There shouldn't be any significant voltage difference between the inputs to an op-amp with feedback. Very odd.

Thanks. My bad. I intend to use the pedal for low to medium gain so I think this will work. In addition, I plan to leave out all the diodes except the power supply diode..

I think this is just what I was looking for as I want to build a -2w version. However, could you please confirm that there are no typos as the "2M &" entry for R2 seems to be missing something after the "&", also the R18 change from 1M to 10k seems large. Do you recall if the -2w mod got rid of...

I haven't built an amp, but I read that one key step before putting tubes in is to check voltages at all the important points. You might need the rectifier tube in to do that. If all the tube sockets are getting correct voltages then the problem is probably on the signal path, and in your case...

I've noticed the pedal sometimes produces a faint hiss and occasionally a pop or two. I tested the connections and pots, and noticed that Sag is noisy. This is probably because it is a voltage divider, and might be the source of the noise. Would be interested to know if others hear that...

I think the low idss numbers might be due to the tester.using only 4v but I'm not sure about that.

I haven't done a side by side yet, but like you I aim to have all my pedals be DIY, so I have a compressor and Muff sitting idle as well as the DM-2W...

For this week's build I went with the Seabed delay as I was hoping it would replace my expensive DM-2W (the sale of which will buy enough components to build about 4 pedals). I'm not disappointed. I got the PT2399 from Tayda for $0.79 and it works great, so no problems there. Overall, the build...

Put together a Park and Ride yesterday. I ran out of imaginative names so just called it 'Wah' so friends can have some idea of what it is. One issue was that the TL074 is not a 16 pin IC, but a 14 pin, so I had no sockets for it and had to solder it direct. Another was that it requires a 4u7...

Ah yes I see. I was wondering how they would be able to drop the whole lot in the case with side jacks, but there you go.

Interesting that they managed to put the whole pedal on one pcb with no offboard wiring.

The key skill in pedal building is soldering. Watch a few youtube videos on how to solder and then practice on junk electrical waste until you can easily solder joint after joint and keep the tip clean. Then, and only then, try to build an Aion FX kit. If your eyesight is less than perfect I...

I went the SMD + TO92 board route with this one as I read that J201 idss is critical for getting the FETs biased. I ordered 10 MMBFJ201 from Tayda at 42 cents each and 9 TO92 boards from Osh at $1.40 total (including shipping !!). Soldering SMD was a new experience so it took a while but after...

Thanks for that link. My component tester was giving me readings of 100-300uA for my 8 SMD J201s so I didnt trust it. I built that circuit and tested for idss and they were 300-670uA, so all good. Note that for idss testing only, all you need is a 9v battery, 100R resistor, and a multimeter...