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Thanks. I went back and cleaned that with IPA, but I'm still having the same grounding problem. In fact, I'm pretty sure the messiness you see is caused by the rework that I did earlier (replacing C14 in this case), so I don't think it is the cause of the problem. I am pretty stumped at this...

I removed the pot and C14, and I still have continuity between negative side of C14 and pins 1 and 3 for the pot. Here are some photos:

All 3 pins of the pot have continuity to ground, and the level of the pot doesn’t change that. I measured the resistance between pins 1 and 3 at ~1.5 ohms (basically nothing), and when I measure between pin 1 or 3 and pin 2, it’s ~3 ohms at each extreme and maxes out at ~30K ohms somewhere in...

I just checked. Interestingly, I have continuity between pin 1 of the pot and ground, but I also have continuity between pin 3 and ground, which seems like it might be the problem. Is it possible I have a bad pot?

I just built a Captain Bit, and I am having an issue where the volume is very low, even with the Level Pot at 100%. I have already done the following: double checked the values of all resistors and capacitors swapped out the TL072 IC used an audio probe to track the issue to somewhere between...

Thanks, Chuck. I went back and checked my work, and I figured out the problem. I had flipped the 47n and 47p capacitors (yikes). Once I fixed that, the pedal is performing as expected. Thanks for your help!

Thanks, Chuck. I am getting 6.9V on the drain of Q1. How can I measure the output voltage you mentioned?

I just built a Glory Hole Overdrive pedal, and it sounds good but I find that unity gain is at ~2 o'clock on the Volume control. I'm thinking it might benefit from adding the charge pump board (perhaps JHS would agree, since I believe the Morning Glory v4 added 18V operation). Do you think...

Thanks for the explanation, man. Makes sense and really helpful!

Possibly dumb question about your diode clipping switch: maybe I'm not understanding the way the toggle switch is working, but won't this always include the red LEDs in the clipping section? Looks like it would be: position 1: 1n4148 + 2 LEDs in parallel, position 2: 2 LEDs in parallel...

All, I have good news and bad news. The good news is, I've identified the problem and the pedal os now working perfectly. The bad news is, as I feared, I was doing something incredibly stupid, so I wanted to share here, in case it helps someone else avoid issues in the future. The problem...

Update: I’ve narrowed down the issue to R2 (22K resistor). With the audio probe, I get audio on the front side of the resistor, but only buzzing on the back side. I removed the resistor and replaced it, then I tried again withe same result. Next thing I did was to desolder the offending side...

No, buzzing on both sides of C1. I assume I should focus here for now (can be more issues after this, I suppose). Should I check anything else besides the cap value? Here’s the backside of the board for further detail. Thanks for the tip on not measuring capacitance in circuit. I’ll remove it...

Thanks, Zgrav. I just built an audio probe (wasn’t familiar before you mentioned), and it seems like I am getting audio until capacitor C1 (a 10uf tantalum capacitor). At C1, I start getting a buzz instead of audio. I double checked the capacitor polarity, and that is correct. I then...

Yes, I have isolated it, so no components are touching the enclosure.

Bumping this up. I've gone back and checked for bad solder joints, and everything seems to be in order, but still just buzzing. Anyone have a suggestion on what I should check?

Hey all, This is my first attempt at building a pedal, so sorry if I’ve done something dumb. Current state is when the switch is off, everything is fine (audio makes it to the amp), but as soon as I switch the pedal on, there is a loud buzzing noise and no audio signal (led also lights up)...