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I like Stompbox Parts. Decent prices, good selection including some of the weird stuff (dual gang, odd tapers), and they always show up quickly (from MI to TX in my case). I ordered my non-hardware components from Mouser. So I don’t have much occasion to order from Tayda, and their ‘90s...

“None” is also a valid warranty policy. Depending on price point and what you’re trying to achieve. My main point was, decide beforehand, communicate it clearly to (potential) customers, and stick to it. Whatever “it” is. Don’t just start improvising when you get your first...

I think the main thing I would do if I was going to sell commercially, even on a very small scale, is write up an actual warranty policy. As much for my own benefit, as for the buyer. Think about and codify: • what do I feel like is my responsibility to fix if it fails in normal use? • what time...

^ that’s a very PhD Thesis way of figuring out that all the Muffs mostly sound like Muffs…

Nice! I’ve got a Pro Filter in my queue, might do something like this. Or, build the mixer into the same enclosure, and turn the individual outs into send/return loops…🤔

This article: https://mixdownmag.com.au/features/violet-oscillation-pedal-abstracting-specialist-shoegaze-tones-from-the-genres-boffins/ mentions “The pedal is inspired by a range of circuits – there’s a little bit of BOSS HM-2, a bit of Vox Tone Bender, a bit of Roger Mayer Octavia…” Don’t...

Well, I guess this troubleshooting thread was productive… …for EQD ;)

Did the pedal work previously, or is this your first time powering up after building it?

Though I agree with the sentiment about America’s ‘pathological aspirationalism’, I think you might be referencing this oft-mis-paraphrased Steinbeck quote. Where he was actually talking shit about dilettante weekend revolutionaries;) "Except for the field organizers of strikes, who were pretty...

Only tips I have for drilling steel are slowest speed you can manage and plenty of pressure (like most of your body weight) on the back of the drill. Unless it’s stainless, then you should just give up immediately! ;)

I think it’s also useful, conceptually, to differentiate between 0V (the black wire coming from your power supply) and chassis ground. 0V is your return current path, you need it for your circuit to work. And in a pedal you’ve got a DC power circuit and an AC audio circuit that both need a 0V...

The market seems to be crying out for some dual-gang pot prophylaxis. I tried to trim a regular one to fit, when I built my Pitch Pirate, but it didn’t stay on very well.

Had problems with a bunch of sites yesterday. One thing I did realize eventually, if it’s been a little while, clear your history before you try to load again, or it may just keep bringing up the cached Cloudflare error page.

Alas, I’m in Texas, which is about as non-EU as you can get! ;) Thanks for the kind offer, though. 👍 I’ve got a pretty big backlog of other stuff to get through before I could get to this anyway. Perhaps I’ll download the files and stash them away for future. Might also be cool to build just...

Nice! I dig the all-symbols legending. 👍 I have one of these in my to-build pile. Looking forward to it. Glad to hear it plays nice with synths.

That one definitely sounds cool based on the description (i.e. clean note attack with the reverb coming in at the end). I haven’t made it to the ‘get my own PCBs made’ phase of DIY, yet. But if somebody did get a batch of these made up, I’d definitely buy a board or two.

Does anybody make a general purpose reverb driver PCB, along these lines? https://en.moodysounds.com/alla-produkter/byggsatser/bjfe-byggsatser/bjf-universal-reverb-kit/ This one looks cool but it’s full kit only, Swedish, and their American distributor is out of stock. Would be cool to have a...

Here’s the PPCB one (with the PCB In grounded on bypass). Works, easy to tell what’s going on at a glance. But if you want to reinvent the wheel in a way that makes more sense to you…🤷‍♀️

I think 2 & 3 only need to connect when the effect is in bypass, which grounds the “Board In” in bypass. 3 & 6 need to be connected, but an actual wire between 2 & 3 seems extraneous.

I’ve got a little Ryobi sheet sander. It’s definitely an improvement over hand sanding, but still a fairly long and tedious process. Maybe I need to upgrade to an orbital…🤔 Also, PSA: please try not to wash a bunch of super-fine aluminum dust down your sink. It’s small enough to escape...