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I’ve got one of those On-Stage ones too, but I put it under the table (or the tv tray from Target, that my mixer sits on, to be more precise): I’ve got two of these handy rack shelves in it: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1261093-REG/auray_rs_v_1u_one_space_vented_rack.html One is for...

Took a trip to Romania 🇷🇴 last month and saw 3 different shrikes!!! I think they potentially have 5 (maybe 6) shrike species there, depending on location and time of year.

If you don’t have the Loggerhead, you should have the Northern. No one in the US need go shrike-less!

Oh yeah, I meant to post this in case it’s helpful for anyone else: I just marked up the image with my Apple Pencil. A little tedious, but not too bad. Wish Aion did this themselves… The Mouser-ready BOMs are the main thing that lures me back to Aion projects.

Finally finished up this guy. It’s an Aion Graviton board. Generally, on all of my fuzz and distortion builds I do some kind of raptor. But for this one I though I should probably have the most metal 🤘 bird of them all, the avian abattoir-ist, the butcherbird himself: your very own Loggerhead...

So, I ended up just cutting the tops off of two regular ones and sticking them together with a strip of electrical tape. Obviously this wouldn’t be a great large scale solution. But for the amount/frequency of pedals I build, I think it’ll work fine 🤷‍♀️

Either of your solutions should work. I’d probably just go with the 20kC. From a Quick look at the schematic, it looks like that pot is part of a low-pass filter. From noon to full CW will only be 10% of the pot’s range (i.e. from 2.5k - 0 ohms). Aka - the most tweakable range is in the...

A buddy of mine who’s a pedal steel player was asking me about modifying his guitar volume pot to make it easier to do volume swells with his pinky. Basically he’d like it if the knob hit Minimum volume somewhere around a half turn rather than at full counter-clockwise. Like so: He’s...

I’ve got a cheapo ($20-$30ish) no-name, no-fancy-controls, plug-in solder sucker (from Amazon or EBay, can’t remember). I only use it when braid won’t cut it: chunky stuff like jacks and switches. Plug it in, make sure it’s not sitting anywhere it shouldn’t be, go do something else for 5...

It’s a victimless pedal; sounds like punching somebody in the dark…;)

That’s just crazy enough to work! ;) Looks like a minimum order of 1,000 though… 🤔

Due to wanting my own layouts (for aesthetic reasons) and/or mods, I frequently off-board wire my pots. Sometimes I just leave the board floating, but I’d like other options. Sadly nobody puts standoff holes in PCBs anymore 😢. I’ve tried at least one version of those edge-mount standoffs, but...

Amateur here. I have some hyperbolically strong opinions too! Just not about any of this stuff…

That color coding would make sense to an electrician (in the US anyway), since in 120/240V black is always a hot and white is your neutral (which is the closest thing AC has to a -negative). But even the National Electrical Code only specifies colors for ground (green or bare) and neutral...

It’s weird, your board (as well as the Duo-Phase BOM and schematic) clearly show B25k. But the PCB image on the Duo-Phase product page shows A25k…

Ah yes, TDK 🤦‍♂️ Of course I was always more of a Maxell XL-II guy back in the day, that’s probably why I couldn’t remember;)

Grays are Kemet, right? I know I’ve used some blues, but can’t remember who makes them… Anyone know if the competing brands use the same materials and are likely to have similar shortages/discontinuations?

Yeah, those WIMA MKS2 are mainly what I had been buying for film caps lately, after encountering them in Aion’s handy Mouser BOMs.

Just for added confusion, if you delve into the world of modular synths at all, you’ll encounter the terms • AC Coupled: meaning it has a DC-blocking cap in the signal path, and the module is intended to pass/process audio signals only —and— • DC Coupled: meaning no cap, and the module can...

Just make sure you use something with a flared base, for safety! ;)